David completing the Offa's Dyke National Trail at the finish boulder at Sedbury Cliffs near Chepstow
Offa’s Dyke Path….. Day 15….. Longtown to Llangattock-Lingoed…. Tuesday 17th October 2023…. 10 miles.
My walk today comprised of the dramatic southern end of Hatterrall Ridge followed by the rolling farmland between Pandy and Llangattock-Lingoed.
It was a good hour’s climb from Longtown to rejoin the Offa’s Dyke Path up on the ridge. The windy ridge walk required me to put on my fleece as the wind-chill factor dropped the temperature to around 4C! I met George + Jenny from Abergavenny out on a local walk. The sun finally broke through and remained out for the rest of the day.
In the mid-afternoon I finally arrived at the delightful small village of Llangattock-Lingoed…. well known as an excellent example of a Celtic + Pre-Norman settlement. I explored the Church of St Cadoc…. a local Welsh saint… the exterior stonework is rendered with lime-wash….. the interior is fantastic with traces of medieval wall paintings. My lovely B+B…. The Old Rectory built in the 17th century is set in an acre of garden with stunning views over surrounding countryside. I enjoyed tea and scones looking out from my bedroom window.
My evening meal at the nearby 13th century inn called ‘The Hunters Moon’ was absolutely superb.
Tomorrow I walk to Monmouth. The current spell of fine weather is coming to an end with rain forecast for the next few days….. but I’m so thankful for the many fine October days I have experienced so far.
Offa’s Dyke Path….. Day 15….. Longtown to Llangattock-Lingoed…. press play!
Crossing Olchon Brook just after leaving Longtown
Today the approach of Storm Babet influenced my walk to Monmouth! Leaving Llangattock-Lingoed at 8am it was dry…. 10am fine drizzle…. 11am heavy drizzle…. 12 noon light rain…. 2pm heavy rain. I walked at a good pace covering the 16 miles by mid afternoon. I made sure my iPhone was safe and dry…. hence fewer photos today. By late afternoon the rain from Storm Babet was torrential… luckily by this time I was in my B+B!
There was a 45 minute diversion off the Offa’s Dyke Path due to an unsafe bridge but it was well signposted. Today’s walk was through a misty rolling rural landscape…. at one point passing the very walls of the impressive White Castle.
Finally arriving at my B+B I received a very warm welcome with a hot cup of tea….. time to dry off my walking gear!
At 5pm as the almost tropical rain poured down I was picked up by Jonathan and Jane…. friends from our Hong Kong days who now live near Ross-on-Wye…. it was 23 years since I last saw them! It was a delightful evening!
Despite the weather I did enjoy my walk to Monmouth…. I am now aware that with just two days to go until Chepstow I am fast approaching the end of my adventure!!
Offa’s Dyke Path…. Day 16…. Llangattock-Lingoed to Monmouth…. press play!
Offa’s Dyke Path…. Day 17….. Monmouth to Tintern…. Thursday 19th October 2023…. 14.5 miles!
I was lucky that the walk from my B+B in Over Monnow to rejoin the Offa’s Dyke Path led me to Monnow Bridge in Monmouth….. the only surviving medieval gate bridge with a tower…. built in 1270! I enjoyed threading my way through the old town of Monmouth.
I then followed the Wye Valley Walk along the banks of the River Wye…. it was very brown and swollen after the heavy overnight rain from Storm Babet. At Redbrook I stamped my Offa’s Dyke passport at the village post office plus enjoyed a cappuccino + Mars bar.
Once more on the Offa’s Dyke Path I climbed steeply up into the National Nature Reserve of Highbury Wood…. it was a stunning forest walk with the frequent heavy rain showers splashing through the branches and leaves…. the wet autumn leaves on the ground glistened in the dappled light! The profusion of shining wet woodland fauna was breathtaking!
I decided to take the riverside Offa’s Dyke option from Bigsweir Bridge to Tintern. I met and chatted to Jon + Fyn from near Stansted… father + son duo just embarking on their ‘south to north’ Offa’s Dyke adventure! I am staying overnight at Parva Farmhouse by the River Wye…. beautiful accommodation in a 17th century stone farm house…. superb evening meal.
Tomorrow morning I head off to Chepstow and the Offa’s Dyke finish point at Sedbury Cliffs.
Offa’s Dyke Path…. Day 17….. Monmouth to Tintern…. press play!
Rainfall in Cadora Woods
At 2pm today I was SO EXCITED to finish the Offa’s Dyke National Trail!!!!
My day started with 2 hours of pouring rain!! I walked to the romantic riverside ruins of Tintern Abbey…. managed a few brief photos but quickly put my iPhone away in its dry-bag! It was founded in 1131 by Cistercian monks.
I crossed the old tramway bridge over the swollen River Wye…. then climbed up through the forest to the Devil’s Pulpit….. awesome view down to Tintern Abbey and the River Wye….. I chatted to Mike out in the rain with his dog….. it was here I rejoined the Offa’s Dyke Path…. the rain was non-stop making the trail muddy and slippy.
I eventually emerged in the fields at Buttingham Tump…. back on top of the Dyke. On reaching the outskirts of Chepstow and Sedbury I did a muddy climb up to the edge of the Severn Estuary at Sedbury Cliffs. I finally reached the stone that marks the symbolic end of my Offa’s Dyke adventure with great views of the estuary and the Severn Suspension Bridge.
I was so happy to reach my destination on this epic national trail!!!
On re-entering Chepstow I had a lovely conversation with locals Elaine and Ivor! Ivor remembered watching a torchlit procession from below the stone ramparts of Chepstow Castle . . . the very spot we were standing on . . . it was marking the end of the Second World War in 1945 and the end of the national black-out!!! As I entered my overnight accommodation…. The Coach and Horses…. I met Leuan and Jodi…. I bought them a drink plus my own to celebrate my completion of the Offa’s Dyke Path!
Offa’s Dyke Path….. Day 18….. Tintern to Sedbury Cliff and Chepstow…. press play!
Video of David's thoughts on completing the Offa's Dyke National Trail
Finally a huge thanks to everyone at MacsAdventure… my accommodation was truly amazing. I also greatly appreciated the positive and supportive comments from my fellow MacsAdventurers to my daily posts on the MacsAdventure Community Group . . . also for the helpful posts on the Offa's Dyke National Trail Facebook Group.
“Walking is the ultimate travel adventure. You never know where your feet will take you.”
Richard A. Schmidt
I would love to hear from you either by commenting directly to this blog or by secure email as outlined in the 'Contact' section of my website . . . 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains'.
Regards
David