David leaving Keld in the rain . . . this was the one and only time I wore my poncho!
Pennine Way Day 10 . . . Keld to Baldersdale . . . Tuesday 11th August 2020
As I walked up onto the fell the sky grew dark with the threat of a downpour. A local farmer rounding up his sheep on a quad-bike stopped to chat. In a broad yorkshire accent he assured me . . . "Aye in five minutes there'll be some big drops . . . yer mite need yer big coat!". He was absolutely right! I put on my rain poncho that I had bought for my pilgrimage on the Camino last year. I didn't really like wearing it in northern Spain as I got just as wet on the inside due to condensation but here on top of the Pennines it was ok. Nevertheless it was the last time I was to wear it on the Pennine Way.
First view of the Tan Hill Inn . . . highest pub in the UK!
At 528 metres (1,732 feet) above sea level it is proud to be in the Guinness Book of Records . . . just eight metres above its nearest rival, the Cat and Fiddle Inn, in the Peak District. I was amazed to see both a 'snow-cat' and snow-plough parked outside! The pub dates from the 1600's . . . during the 18th century it was used as a hostelry by workers digging coal pits. It was originally surrounded by miners cottages but these were demolished in the 1930's. The Tan Hill Inn is a 'free house' serving a range of beers from the 'Black Sheep' and 'Theakston' breweries . . . but it was far too early for a swift pint! Several big bands have played at the inn, including the 'Arctic Monkeys'! On New Years Eve in 2009 revellers were unable to leave the pub for three days as they were snowed in!
A drier section of the peat-bog on Sleightholme Moor!
The muddy track following Frumming Beck across Sleightholme Moor
Alongside the track I noticed a line of ten freshly painted 'shooting butts' ready for the next day's 'Glorious Twelfth' . . . the start of the grouse shooting season. I hope the birds keep away!
The natural limestone bridge . . . 'God's Bridge' . . . over the River Greta
Thank goodness there is an underpass beneath the busy dual-carriageway A66!
Near Deepdale Beck Moss this style of PW signpost seemed out of place!
My overnight accomodation . . . the Fox and Hounds . . . in the village of Cotherstone
Pennine Way Day 11 . . . Baldersdale to Langdon Beck . . .
Wednesday 12th August 2020
Hearty breakfast at the Fox and Hounds in Cotherstone
Hannah's Meadow in Baldersdale
Tuck-shop at Wythes Hill Farm on the slopes of Harter Fell
I spent half and hour exploring the main street with its cafes and gardens. It was a hot afternoon so I went into the local Co-op to buy extra water and a magnum ice-cream! I sat on a bench in the shade to enjoy my magnum and watch the world go by. It was a strange feeling to sit amongst people enjoying the outdoor cafes with traffic going by . . . I felt I had left the wilderness to enter this busy little town!
Enjoying my brief detour into Middleton-in-Teesdale!
Gathering thunder clouds to the north as I enter Upper Teesdale
Low Force Waterfall . . . Upper Teesdale
* it may take a few seconds to upload the video
Spectacular whiskey-coloured waters of the River Tees at Low Force
High Force Waterfall . . . Upper Teesdale
High Force Waterfall . . . Upper Teesdale
* it may take a few seconds to upload the video
The River Tees in Upper Teesdale near Langdon Beck
Langdon Beck in Upper Teesdale
Pennine Way Day 12 . . . Langdon Beck to Dufton . . . Thursday 13th August 2020
Langdon Beck flowing down to its confluence with the River Tees
Boulder strewn River Tees below the cliffs of Falcon Clints
. . . the Pennine Way is at the very edge of the riverbank
I loved the stunning flora of Upper Teesdale . . . indeed along the entire length of the Pennine Way
Cauldron Snout . . . as a cataract . . . longest waterfall in England
Awesome, wonderful, spectacular . . . Cauldron Snout!!!
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Wild ponies grazing on the High Cup Plain . . . on my approach to High Cup Nick
My first view of the dramatic High Cup Nick!!!
High Cup Nick
* Slideshow of the spectacular High Cup Nick
Looking down into the Vale of Eden from Peeping Hill
Dufton Pike and Knock Pike . . . distictive conical hills on the western edge of the North Pennines
Dufton is built around a viilage green with an avenue of lime trees across it. Houses in the villlage were built from stone quarried from the red sandstone which underlays the Eden Valley . . . these red sandstones formed between 290 and 210 million years ago were from sand deposited in dunes and rivers when this area was a desert north of the equator. Actually I am not that keen on the stone colour . . . I think it gives the building an unattractive 'industrial' quality . . . having said that some people love it!
Distinctive red-sandstone buildings of Dufton
The finishing point of Day 12 . . . the Stag Inn in Dufton
Glorious sunset from my B+B Bondgate House in Appleby
My next blog will be on Days 13 to 15 of the Pennine Way from Dufton to Greenhead!
I would love to hear from you either by commenting directly to this blog or by secure email as outlined in the 'Contact' section of 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains'.
Regards
David