David on the Offa's Dyke National Trail between Knighton + Kington
Heading up into the Black Mountains!
So lucky with the weather today . . . just one rogue shower! Loved walking on the beach to start my day. Placed my hand on the Offa's Dyke steel sculpture to begin my 18 day adventure!
Steep climb up to the bracken and gorse covered Bryn Prestatyn Hillside with dramatic views north to the Irish Sea and west to the cloud covered peaks of Snowdonia. Fields, tracks, country lanes, hilltops and heathland led me south to Rhuallt and the start of the foothills of the Clwydian Range. I had to take care as the downhill paths were muddy and slippy after the rain of recent days.
Only met two walking couples today . . . Mary + Les from Inverness and Roger + Sally from Lincoln . . . not a soul on the trail!
After a refreshing Peroni at the Dinorben Arms in Bodfari I was picked up by my excellent hosts at my B+B Tafam y Waen . . . absolutely delicious home-made lasagne and salad this evening. A truly awesome first day on the Offa's Dyke Path!
Offa's Dyke Path . . . Day 1 . . . Prestatyn to Bodfari . . . press play!
8.4 miles!
Truly awesome day crossing the first part of the Clwydian Hills over several Iron-Age forts. The first was Pen-y-Cloddiau at 440 metres (1,442 feet) . . . it has a flat top surrounded by the vestiges of earthwork defences. Once upon this wonderful ridge walk I was rewarded with spectacular 360 views even as far back to the sea behind me! Next was the impressive summit of Moel Arthur 456 metres (1,496 feet) . . . it is a striking conical hill surmounted by another hill-fort . . . I diverted from the main path to visit the summit. It was so windy!! . . . indeed I was blown over into the heather a couple of times.
Today I met David + Christina from nearby Cefyn-y-Bedd . . . at 86 he gave me some advice as a young 70 year old . . . it was "keep on walking!"
Later I met Liam from Connecticut in the USA . . . camping on his south to north Offa's Dyke journey. Then Mark + Collett from Swanage followed by Nigel + Sarah from the Wirral.
After Moel Arthur I descended into the Vale of Clwyd to make my way along a country lane to the village of Llangynhafal. I am now relaxed in my overnight B+B . . . the warm and friendly Golden Lion Inn . . . my hosts are lovely . . . traditional Welsh folk music in the evening! Amazingly one of the musicians, Nicky, is originally from my hometown of Harrogate . . . her parents live on the next street from my house. Growing up in the 1980's she sang in the choir at my church! Small world! Another brilliant day on the Offa's Dyke Trail!
Offa's Dyke Path . . . Day 2 . . . Bodfari to Llangynhafal . . . press play!
Welsh folk night in the Golden Lion in Llangynhafal
My day started with a steep uphill from Llangynhafal to rejoin the Offa’s Dyke trail at Moel Dywll high on the ridge of the Clwydian Range. The ridge stretches for 20 miles in a series of whaleback ridges….. the springy turf is delightful to walk on across these heather and bilberry covered hills….. totally amazing views down into the lush green of the Vale of Clwyd and way back to the north I could still see the Irish Sea! I then followed the path up to the highest point…. Moel Famau at 555 metres (1,820 feet)….known as ‘The Mother Mountain’ it is crowned with the Jubilee Tower built in 1810 to mark the jubilee of King George III!
It was here I met John, Tony and Terry from Merseyside…. they are members of a walking group who have been together for 23 years since they all retired…. Tony at 81 shared his love of hiking and once again I listened to his advice when he said to me “Keep on walking!”…. the same advice I heard yesterday!!!…. of course its what Lynne said to me before she passed away.
It was wet and windy on the summit but soon cleared up as I descended down to Llanbed-Dyffryn-Clwyd. I am now overnight in The Griffin pub…. I’ve just enjoyed a superb Welsh lamb supper!
Offa’s Dyke Path….. Day 3…… Llangynhafal to Llanbedr-Dyffryn-Clwyd…. press play!
Offa’s Dyke Path… Day 4…. Bwlch Penbarra to Llandegla…. Friday 6th October 2023….. 8.6 miles.
From the pass at Bwlch Penbarra I climbed steeply up to Foel Fenlli at 511 metres (1,676 feet)…. the Offa’s Dyke trail contours round the west shoulder but I decided to go for the summit with its Iron Age hill-fort. The wind was so strong with occasional extreme gusts…. it was so exciting…. as you can see in the attached video clip! The double ramparts and ditches of the hill-fort were amazing….. the inner one would have had a timber stockade. Archaeologists have identified 30 hill-forts in the Clywd area….. incredibly they date from 800-600 years before the Roman invasion of Britain in AD43!!!! The Foel Fenlli hill-fort was truly awesome…. I’m so glad I made the effort to climb to the summit cairn!
The other highlight of the day was meeting Siobahn from the nearby village of Treuddyn….. she was out walking for the day. We chatted for ages about the local area and our shared love of walking. She is a member of a local rambling group….. the leader of this group…. Mike Costello has developed a new pilgrimage trail across North Wales…. it will be starring on next year’s BBC ‘Pilgrimage’ documentary!
I was delighted to find a community shop/cafe on my arrival in Llandegla…. pot of tea with a freshly made cherry scone!…. plus a stamp for my Offa’s Dyke Path passport.
Overnight in Llangollen.
Offa’s Dyke Path… Day 4…. Bwlch Penbarra to Llandegla … press play!
David on summit of Iron Age Hillfort of Foel Fenlli at 511 metres (1,676 feet)
A truly wonderful walk with such varied landscapes…. Llandegla Forest shared with mountain bikers, walking across stone slabs over boggy moorland with startled grouse taking to the air and traversing steep screes beneath the dramatic limestone cliffs of Egwyseg Crags. On my final approach to Llangollen I was awestruck by the forbidding outline of Castell Dinas Bran…. so much so that I did a forty minute detour to climb up to its fortified summit….. the wind was so strong that I had to take great care exploring its stone ramparts…. it was the 13th century castle of the Princes of Northern Powys.
As I had descended from the extensive moorland I came across three groups of students from Rydal School in Colwyn Bay…. they were doing their Duke of Edinburgh silver award… such a lovely group of positive young people…. its so good to see them in the great outdoors!
Approaching the limestone screes I met Mae + Gareth from Eccleston doing a weekend section of Offa’s Dyke. Soon after I was chatting with Sian + Rob from Brecon…. they had used Macs Adventure when they did the Pennine Way. My final encounter was with Martin from Birmingham beneath the towering Egwyseg Crags.
I was soon crossing the bridge over the roaring waters of the River Dee in Llangollen…. a fantastic day on the Offa’s Dyke Path!!!
Offa’s Dyke Path….. Day 5….. Llandegla to Llangollen…. press play!
River Dee in Llangollen
Soon after leaving Llangollen I met Mark from Llandudno…. he was also walking Offa’s Dyke north to south…. but he didn’t think he would get to the end at Chepstow because he was probably going to run out of time. We chatted about our travels….. he was hoping to climb Island Peak in Nepal next year.
I enjoyed walking along the ‘Panorama Walk’ which is a continuation of yesterday’s limestone crags and screes. The trail then meandered through ‘Tolkien’ woodland eventually reaching the Llangollen Canal.
I then crossed the spectacular ‘Pontcysyllte Aqueduct’ which carries the canal over the River Dee! It is one of the wonders of the Offa’s Dyke Path. Built by Thomas Telford between 1795 and 1805….. it takes narrowboats in an iron tank over 18 stone piers….. with the river 126 feet below!! It was truly awesome!!
On my way to Chirk I chatted to Jill + Katy from Worcestershire…. they are walking Offa’s Dyke in stages….. we shared our passion for walking and travel.
Finally I detoured off the trail to visit the National Trust Chirk Castle…. built in the 13th century it served as a border fortress for 300 years. In the late 1500’s it was transformed into a grand Elizabethan home. In the NT cafe I enjoyed a double-shot mocha with a berry flapjack!!! I soon reached my B+B after visiting the beautiful church in Chirk….. I am now in Shropshire!
Another wonderful day on the Offa’s Dyke trail!
Offa’s Dyke Path…. Day 6….. Llangollen to Chirk…. press play!
Wonderful walk over varied undulating landscapes…. 2,827 feet elevation gain! Today I walked on the actual Offa’s Dyke for the first time…. did my best to take photos of it but at this stage it is covered in trees, gorse and undergrowth!
It was an amazing feeling to be walking on this linear mound with accompanying ditch…. over 1,200 years old…. a truly incredible old frontier earthwork!! Offa became King of Mercia in 757AD. He became the greatest monarch and ruler of the most powerful kingdom in Britain since the departure of the last Roman soldiers in 406AD. Of all the Anglo-Saxon kings he was surpassed by only one….. Alfred the Great. Under his rule Mercia came to cover the greater part of England. After a second attempt to invade Wales Offa decided to build a permanent barrier along the troubled border…. Offa’s Dyke!!!
Late in the day after a very steep climb up Llanymynech Hill I began to feel quite tired after 8.5 hours of walking…. just a few miles from my destination . . . on the forest covered ridge I suddenly came across Brenda + Dawn…. they were like ‘angels’ appearing in a mirage!! They are doing Offa’s Dyke in stages but this afternoon they were doing a circular from Llanymynech. It transpired they were also staying in the Bradford Arms Hotel! Energised with conversation and company I suddenly felt a ‘bounce in my step’!!! We were soon passing the impressive Llanymynech limestone crags and quarries with awesome views out over the Severn Plain! Twenty minutes later we were in our accommodation in Llanymynech! Today had been 18 miles in 10 hours!!
Offa’ Dyke Path….. Day 7….. Chirk to Llanymynech…. press play!
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“Walking is the ultimate travel adventure.
You never know where your feet will take you.”
Richard A. Schmidt
Regards
David