David on the England Coast Path + 'The Way of the Sea' . . . Druridge Bay
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In 2022 I walked the 100 km (62 miles) St Cuthbert's Way, it is a wonderful long-distance trail between the Scottish Borders town of Melrose and Lindisfarne (Holy Island) off the coast of Northumberland. The walk is named after Cuthbert, a 7th century saint, a native of the Borders who spent his life in the service of the early church in England.
Since then I have discovered 'The Northern Saints Trails' . . . they are based on 6 pilgrimage routes that portray the region's Saints and their stories. Four of the trails . . . 'The Way of Life', 'The Way of Love', 'The Way of Light' and 'The Way of Learning' all lead to and from the Shrine of St Cuthbert in Durham Cathedral. I was keen to walk in and around Durham so on Wednesday I decided to attempt a walk that touched on these trails.
I also love walking on the beach at Druridge Bay in Northumberland. I usually try to visit this awesome coastal location at least a couple of times every year. I was delighted to discover that the route of another 'Northern Saints Trail' . . . 'The Way of the Sea' is along the beach at Druridge Bay.
So put on your 'virtual boots' and please join me following in the footsteps of the Northern Saints!
View of Durham Cathedral from Whinney Hill
It was a cloudy but fine and dry morning as I parked my car at the Belmont Park-n-Ride outside Durham. After ten minutes negotiating the early morning traffic on footpaths to cross the bridge over the A1 I thankfully entered the countryside north of Durham. After walking on very muddy paths through fields I entered the wooded gorge of the River Wear at Kepier Woods. I was delighted to see three roe deer in the field next to me . . . they were absolutely still obviously alert to my movements. The steep sided crags within the gorge are used by rock climbers. Apart from a few early morning dog walkers the riverside path was very quiet. I could see evidence of quarrying . . . indeed some of the stone for the Cathedral and Castle were quarried in this area. The River Wear at this point is flowing northwards before it later turns east to enter the sea at Sunderland. It was very brown and muddy after recent rains. Just before entering Durham I arrived at the site of the medieval 'Hospital of St Giles' at Kepier. The gatehouse with its stone arch built in 1333 for Bishop Richard de Bury is still intact. I spent a few minutes looking at this impressive structure trying to imagine it in its heyday. I was soon walking along streets taking me up into Durham itself. I was amazed to come across an old house with this year's bright red Chinese New Year door couplets wishing everyone good luck for the coming Year of the Dragon. I was immediately transported back to our time in Hong Kong!!
Kepier Woods, River Wear and approach into Durham
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River Wear in the gorge at Kepier Woods
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After my late breakfast I walked beside the River Wear south of Durham close to the Durham university sports grounds. I came across the life-size bronze statue of the 'Durham Cow' erected in 1997. According to local folklore a revelation instructed the monks to move St Cuthbert's relics to Dunholme (Durham) . . . by a milk-maid bringing her cow into Durham . . . she showed them the way!
After leaving the River Wear I climbed up to the top of Maiden Castle . . . an ancient Iron-Age promontory fort with very steep slopes on the north, south and east . . . it is now overgrown with trees. I then climbed the nearby Whinney Hill where I was rewarded with a fantastic view of Durham Cathedral . . . see above photo.
I then walked along the wooded slopes of Great High Woods and Hollinside Woods. I felt miles from anywhere yet the town and university were just over the hill! I finally headed north along Hollingside Lane from Pinnock Hill eventually reaching the main campus of Durham University . . . students were obviously walking to and from their lectures. I made my way back down to the River Wear where it winds round a tight horseshoe bend which protects the Cathedral, castle and old town of Durham. I crossed over the Prebends Bridge which links the university with the old town. The bridge was designed by George Nicholson and built from 1772 to 1778 . . . it was built on the instructions of the Dean of Durham serving as a private road for the Dean and Chapter of Durham. I was soon walking in the precincts of the Cathedral.
Walk south of Durham from Elvet Bridge via Hollinside Woods back to Durham Cathedral
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The current building was built in 1093 to house the Shrine of St Cuthbert. It is world renowned for its truly magnificent Romanesque architecture. It has a spectacular setting in a dramatic location surrounded on three sides by the River Wear.
Although I have visited the Cathedral many times I am still 'blown away' by its many highlights . . . including the 12th century Galilee Chapel with its original medieval wall paintings, the incredible towering sandstone pillars in the nave, the stunning Rose Window in the Chapel of Nine Altars. The wonderful medieval Cloister featured in the first two Harry Potter films . . . indeed I saw three young people dressed in HP garb swirling and twirling in their black gowns for that all important Instagram photo!
Durham Cathedral . . . World Heritage Site
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I sat by the shrine for 30 minutes just soaking in the incredible sacred atmosphere! One young lady was deep in prayer overlooking the marble cover of Cuthbert's tomb for the entire time I was there. A truly awesome moment in time!
The Shrine of St Cuthbert . . . Durham Cathedral
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David walking on the England Coast Path + 'The Way of the Sea' at Druridge Bay
The next morning, after my Durham adventure, I drove north up to Cresswell. The village is at the southern end of Druridge Bay on the England Coast Path north of Newcastle. It is one of my favourite beaches in the UK. I parked my car at the 'Drift Cafe' which is close to the sand dunes behind the beach. I enjoyed a breakfast of scrambled eggs and smoked salmon on toast with a large mug of mocha!
It was a fine mostly cloudy start to the day. After walking through the sand dunes I was soon on the beach. Wow! . . . it felt so good to be walking on the smooth sands beside the waves of the North Sea.
I was delighted to be walking on both the England Coast Path and the 'Northern Saints - The Way of the Sea'. This glorious 7 mile beach between Cresswell in the south and the town of Amble at the northern end is truly awesome!! Backed by sand-dunes the beach is entirely unspoilt!
Druridge Bay . . . 'the Way of the Sea' + England Coast Path
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Druridge Bay . . . 'the Way of the Sea' + England Coast Path
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Amazingly Druridge Bay was thought of as a possible landing place for a German invasion during World War Two. You can still see the anti-tank blocks and pill boxes that were installed to protect our shores from the enemy. Thankfully the minefields behind the sand dunes were cleared at the end of the war but the anti-tank ditches are still there.
Yet today it was so peaceful and tranquil as I followed the shoreline! I found it a very mindful walk as the beach was almost deserted! I really enjoy my daily meditation practice very early each morning so as I walked on the newly washed sand I found myself breathing deeply the fresh sea air acutely aware of the 'here and now'.
I was thinking of a quote from Adam Ford's book . . . 'The Art of Mindful Walking - Meditations on the Path' . . .
"Millions have taken to the roads throughout history with a greater purpose in mind than just the walking. Whether religious or secular, the eyes of the pilgrim are fixed on the horizon and the 'here and now' is charged with feelings of anticipation."
So as I turned round at the rocks of Hadston Carrs, to make my way back south to Cresswell, I reflected on my journey over the last two days . . . yesterday around Durham and today on the sands of Druridge Bay. I remain passionate about walking whether it be just a day hike or a multi-day long distance adventure. I love the joyful sensation of moving through a landscape with everything flowing past me at a slow human pace. I have thoroughly enjoyed my walk alongside the Northern Saints and I now look forward with great excitement to my next adventure . . . 21 days solo walking from Glasgow to Inverness combining the West Highland Way and the Great Glen Way with Macs Adventure in April/May 2024!
I hope you have enjoyed my 'Northern Saints' : Durham + 'The Way of the Sea' @ Druridge Bay blog! I would love to hear from you either by commenting directly to this blog or by secure email as outlined in the 'Contact' section of my website . . . 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains'.
Regards
David
"Walking . . . is how the body measures itself against the earth"
Rebecca Solnit - 'Wanderlust: A History of Walking'