Approaching Gorakshep alongside the Khumbu Glacier . . . Nepal 2022
'Its 7.45.pm and I am sat here in the Everest Lodge in Gorakshep at an altitude of 5,140 metres (16,962 feet). We are huddled around the yak dung stove . . . there is strong freezing wind howling outside . . . probably well below -15C! I am using my sleeping bag here for the first time. Up until now I have managed with the inner liner bag with piles of quilts on top. But here at over 5,000 metres with no heating in my room the sleeping bag is essential. We have just eaten 'vegetable dal baht' and garlic soup.
This morning we left 'The Pyramid', which is up a side valley above Lobuche, at around 8am. We climbed and followed a path high up on the valley side but parallel with the main Lobuche to Gorakshep path which is next to the rock strewn Khumbu Glacier. There was a strong northerly wind blowing down from the Tibetan plateau . . . it was creating clouds of dust.'
David on approach to Gorakshep . . . Nepal 2022
'The rocky path twisted up and down as we crossed the massive glacial moraines of the Changri Glacier. The awesome peak of 'Pumori' dominated our view to the north-west. It is such a beautiful mountain . . . it towered over us at a height of 7,161 metres (23,494 feet). Walking poles were essential on the boulder strewn path across the glacier. I stopped occasionally to get my breath back as we were now over 5,000 metres (16,500 feet) above sea level. We finally descended into Gorakshep . . . home to just five lodges surrounded by the giants of the Himalayas . . . Everest, Lobuche Peak, the stunning Pumori, Lingtren, Khumbutse and Nuptse!'
Slideshow of approaching Gorakshep . . . press 'PLAY'
Arriving in Gorakshep 5,170 metres (16,962 feet)
'After settling into our rooms at the Everest Lodge we enjoyed 'dal baht' for lunch. We then began the truly awesome climb up to the nearby summit of Kala Patthar . . . 5,645 metres (18,520 feet). It was a steep rocky climb . . . as we were now over 5,000 metres I had to stop occasionally to get my breath back. But after a couple of hours we finally reached the summit prayer flags!! We could look directly across to the massive black pyramid of Mount Everest rising above all the surrounding peaks! I could clearly see the South-West Face, the South Summit and the South Col. Mingma had reached the South Col on both his Everest climbs. As we climbed I began to appreciate the length of the Khumbu Glacier. I could also see the Khumbu Icefall . . . I had dreamed of seeing the Icefall since reading about it as a child! We could see the glacial location of Everest Base Camp where we are going to tomorrow. It was then a long rocky descent back down to Gorakshep,
I am so happy to have climbed up to the summit of Kala Patthar. It was truly awesome to see Everest so close.'
David on Kala Patthar 5,645 metres (18,520 feet) with South West Face of Everest
Climb to summit of Kala Patthar from Gorakshep . . . slideshow . . . press 'PLAY'
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Video . . . on the summit of Kala Patthar 5645 metres (18,520 feet)
Setting off to Everest Base Camp from Gorakshep
'This morning Mingma, Tendi and I set off for Everest Base Camp (EBC) just before 8.00.am. We crossed the dusty plain just below the lodges at Gorakshep 5,170 metres (16,962 feet). The sun was still behind the jagged outline ridge of Nuptse but Pumori, Lingtren and Khumbutse were bathed in early morning light . . . first golden, then pure white! We started to climb up onto the rocky boulders of the huge glacial moraines that filled the valley. The huge Khumbu Glacier, at first covered in moraine debris, was on our right extending for miles behind us down the valley . . . then in front up to the spectacular Khumbu Icefall with Its jumbled turquoise ice seracs and crevasses. Our route went up and down between huge piles of rocks and boulders. At this stage Everest was still hidden behind the icy ridge of Nuptse.'
Picking our way through the gigantic mounds of glacial moraine
'As we made our way along the ridge of lateral moraine we had our first glimpse today of the black snow striated summit pyramid of Everest. After a few hours we finally crossed over to the boulder strewn Khumbu Glacier itself finally reaching the giant EBC boulder. I had waited 40 years to experience this incredible moment in time! In 1982 Lynne and I reached Dingboche within two days of EBC but had to turn back because we had agreed to turn back together if five or more of our group were ill with altitude problems. So at last I was back fulfilling my dream of standing at EBC!'
David at Everest Base Camp 5,364 metres (17,598 feet)
David at Everest Base Camp in front of the Khumbu Icefall
'As we arrived at EBC we chatted to a group of UK trekkers from Brighton who were in Nepal raising money for charity. But after ten minutes they set off back down to Gorakshep leaving Mingma, Tendi and I alone at EBC . . . it was serenely peaceful! I had to pinch myself that I was really here and that it wasn't a dream! We were alone surrounded by gigantic Himalayan peaks. We witnessed an avalance crashing onto the Khumbu Icefall. I was so happy that we were able to get so close to the icefall itself. Over my lifetime I have devoured dozens of books devoted to Everest expeditions knowing that the Khumbu Icefall located here at the head of the Khumbu Glacier is considered one of the most dangerous stages on the South Col route to Everest's summit! Incredibly ice entering the icefall at the end of the Western Cwm takes approximately 4.3 years to emerge at the base . . . just over a mile from where it started. I could clearly see the massive ice blocks and huge crevasses that tumble down under the intense pressure of the glacial flow. I was moved beyond words at this awesome spectacle!'
Everest Base camp . . . slideshow . . . press 'PLAY'
'After watching the avalanche roar down off the south face of Lho La I moved across to the EBC boulder. It was a very emotional moment as I placed a large stone on the EBC boulder for Lynne. I really felt her presence in my heart, mind and spirit. I had not only finally raeched Everest Base Camp for myself after 40 years since our first attempt but this moment was for Lynne as well . . . I held my hand on the stone!'
Lynne's stone on the EBC boulder!!
Video . . . prayer flags at Everest Base Camp
My next blog will enable you to put on your 'virtual boots' and join me climbing Gokyo Ri at 5,357 metres (17,575 feet) on the west side of the Ngozumpa Glacier . . . the largest glacier in Nepal!!
I hope you enjoyed my latest blog! I would love to hear from you either by commenting directly to this blog or by secure email as outlined in the 'Contact' section of my website . . . 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains'.
Regards
David