Ascent of the Thorong La . . . early morning of Tuesday 25th April 2023
Dorje, Pemba and I were up at 3.00.am. After a final pack of my rucksack in the dark by headtorch I made my way to the dining area of the lodge. It was a quick black coffee and porridge with honey to set me up for the day ahead. Gerry, a Mexican/American, was also there preparing for the challenging climb ahead. Last night we had swapped 'life-stories' while enjoying our dal-baht meal.
At 4,450 metres the outside temperature was probably around -15C. The fresh snow was crispy and icy underfoot.... the ice particles were glistening in the light of our headtorches! Even in the darkness I was very aware that Thorong Phedi is encircled by dark forbidding cliffs, crags and ridges . . . 'Phedi' literally means 'bottom of the pass' in Nepalese. The advice from Dorje was to climb slowly and methodically . . . "bistari bistari" . . . "slowly, slowly". We had an altitude gain of almost 1,000 metres to climb. Dorje regularly asked if I was ok . . . it is highly recommended that you turn back if you get a thumping headache and start to become disorientated . . . remembering that altitude can kill . . . yes a sobering thought! However I felt good as we climbed up the steep and exhausting zigzagging path.
David setting off from Thorong Phedi 4,450 metres (14,600 feet) in the dark!
The climb up to the Thorong La at 5,416 metres (17,764 feet) through the deep fresh snow was truly exhilerating. The trekkers ahead of us had created a snowy furrow for us to follow on our climb up to the pass. The increase in altitude meant that I had to stop occasionally to recover my breathing . . . especially as we got higher and higher. As the stars faded and the surrounding peaks became clearer in the light of the dawn the first rays of of sunlight began to catch the snowy peaks above us. On and on we pushed for four hours!
The first rays of sunlight catch the snowy ramparts of the mountains
surrounding the Thorong La . . . truly breathtaking!
After climbing relentlessly for a couple of hours the first flush of dawn revealed the most incredible mountain panorama. I was so excited!! Looking back I could see the awesome peaks of Annapurna III 7,555 metres (24,786 feet) and Gangapurna 7,455 metres (24,458 feet) . . . their icy ramparts glowing in the first light of dawn. To the north and north-east I could see the stunning peaks of Purkung 6,126 metres (20,098 feet), Putrun Himal 6,500 metres (21,325 feet) and Genjiang 6,111 metres (20,049 feet) . . . with the great mass of the spectacular Chulu range on the eastern horizon. The snowy trail climbed steeply now . . . . up towards the sky!! The final approach to the pass, after three hours of climbing, was up and over a number of false summits. It was essential to maintain a slow and rhythmic pace . . . stopping occasionally to take deep breaths. Dorje indicated that the pass was at hand and our efforts would soon be rewarded.
Incredible, awesome and truly breath-taking!!!
Dorje, Pemba and I arrived at . . . Thorong La 5,416 metres (17,769 feet)
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"You are not in the mountains. The mountains are in you." John Muir
Regards
David