David approaching Rifugio Giorgio Bertone 1,989 metres (6,525 feet) . . . clear view of Mont Blanc!!
As the weather was clear and fine for the whole day I decided to walk the tougher variant which is longer and higher than the normal TMB route to Rifugio Bonatti. The variant involves a climb of 8 hours…. 10 miles….. altitude gain of 1,619 metres (5,314 feet)!!! It was absolutely totally awesome…. the mountain vistas were just incredible. Today I had my first clear view of Mont Blanc at 4,809 metres (15,777 feet) and the incredible rocky peaks leading up to the Grande Jorasse 4,208 metres (13,805 feet).
The TMB variant Mont de la Saxe is a tough walk and must only be undertaken in good weather…. you must also have a good ‘head for heights’. I was so excited as I climbed higher and higher with the mountains and glaciers so clear and spectacular. I felt quite emotional looking out across this incredible panoramic view of the south wall of the Mont Blanc range from Col de la Seigne to the Grand Col Ferret . . . the peaks and glaciers of the Grandes Jorasses directly north across the valley from me were truly magnificent! There was a very steep descent off the Tete de la Tronche on the east side of the ridge. As a solo walker I was so pleased to ‘team up’ with Mitzi and Nate from Seattle…. indeed we were in sight of each other for the rest of the walk to Rifugio Bonatti. I loved my overnight stay at this truly wonderful mountain hut… the atmospere and camaraderie was fantastic. The Refugio is named after the Italian Walter Bonatti one of the world's greatest mountaineers! Chatted to David and Kristin from Ohio. I must admit I was too tired to write my post and fell into a deep sleep as soon as my head hit the pillow!! A totally awesome day!!!
“The beauty of adventure is dreaming it, giving air to the imagination - only then can one attempt to realise one’s dreams.” Walter Bonatti
TMB Day 6…. Saturday 5th August 2023…. Courmayeur 1,226 metres (4,022 feet) to Rifugio Bonatti 2,056 metres (6,745 feet) via the TMB variant Mont de la Saxe with high point at Tete de la Tronche 2584 metres (8,477 feet)..... press play!
David climbing the start of the TMB variant up onto Mont de la Saxe . . . video - press play!!
Today I crossed over the Grand Col Ferret out of Italy into Switzerland. I'm now walking along the eastern edge of the Mont Blanc Massif. My day started with a superb contouring trail from Rifugio Bonatti followed by a descent into the Val Ferret then a walk up the valley to the Rifugio Elena. From Elena its was a climb up to the Grand Col Ferret at 2,537 metres (8,323 feet). Reaching the col I looked back at the incredible view back to the Vals Ferret and Veni and the distant Col de la Seigne which I crossed a few days ago!
There was a cold wind on the col with freezing mini-hailstones. I was now descending into a beautiful valley leading down to La Fouly….. clanging cowbells, forest, alpine pastures with wild flowers, gorgeous chalets in stunning Swiss hamlets.
It was here I suddenly felt grateful and overwhelmed with thankfulness for being on the epic TMB. The sheer joy of moving mindfully through this awesome landscape……. the camaraderie of my fellow TMB hikers….. the fact that at the age of 70 I am fit and able to walk this truly brilliant TMB!!!
TMB Day 7….. Sunday 6th August 2023…. Rifugio Bonatti 2,025 metres (6,643 feet)
to La Fouly 1610 metres (5,282 feet) via the Grand Col Ferret 2,537 metres (8,323 feet)!!!!
Press play!!
TMB Day 8….. Monday 7th August 2023….. La Fouly 1,610 metres (5,292 feet) to Champex 1,466 metres (4,809 feet).
It is said to be the easiest stage of the TMB with a distance of 12 miles with modest height loss and gain…. however I must say I was slightly tired by the time I arrived at my Gite Bon-Apri in Champex d’en Haut just over the hill from Champex-Lac where I have two nights.
I was delighted to walk all day with David and Kristin from Ohio. It was lovely to share our life stories. In the forest at Amone Slab we watched some rock climbers in action. The old houses and barns of Praz de Fort 1,151 metres (3,376 feet) were so interesting with piles of firewood ready for Winter stacked artistically…. old wooden farming implements adorned the gable ends of the old buildings and chalets. The climb up to Champex after Issert comes as a bit of a shock….. climbing through stunning forest we eventually arrived at the clear waters of the alpine lake…. Champex-Lac. I said goodbye to my fellow MacsAdventurers at their accommodation by the lake. I still had a mile or so to Gite Bon-Abri. In the evening I enjoyed the company of Kyle, Matt and Eric from Kansas City and Shlomo from Israel. Its a rest day tomorrow….. the Gite is closed from 10-4 so I will relax by the lake and probably go up on the nearby chairlift.
TMB Day 8….. Monday 7th August 2023….. La Fouly 1,610 metres (5,292 feet)
to Champex 1,466 metres (4,809 feet) . . . press play!
Today I enjoyed a rest day in Champex. After breakfast I said good-bye to some of my fellow TMB friends who are moving on today. I left Gite Bon-Apri in Champex d'en Haut and walked back up to the lower station of the La Breya chairlift. It was built for skiers and takes you up a 1,344 metre cable up to Grands Plans at 2,194 metres (7,198 feet) . . . it is considered one of the steepest chairlifts in Europe! I spent a couple of hours exploring the various trails. One of the mountain trails leads up to the summit of La Breya at 2,374 metres (7,788 feet). The extensive mountain views were awesome! I met and chatted to Sallie and Nelle walking with their Grandma Charlotte . . . the girls live in Switzerland but grandma is visiting from Kansas City.
Champex itself is nestled around the magnificent alpine lake of Champex-Lac. I spent the rest of the day exploring the lake with its forests and traditional wooden chalets. The area is also known as 'Switzerland's Little Canada' due to its similarities with the Canadian Rockies. As well as being on the TMB route Champex is also on the famous Haute route from Chamonix to Zermatt. I really enjoyed my rest day with walks up on the summit of Grands Plans, relaxing by the lake and eating both savoury and sweet pancakes in the local cafes!
TMB Day 9 . . . Tuesday 8th August 2023 . . . Rest Day in Champex
Today was a delightful walk including a very steep ascent through pine forest up to Alp Bovine which is located on a gentle slope of alpine pasture facing the Rhone Valley far below. Bovine is a working dairy farm with the cows all around the low building serving refreshments…. I enjoyed a delicious nectarine tart with my coffee!
Early on I walked with Ron + Niaomi from Washington State…. at a young 68 they are probably the first people I have met and chatted to near my age!
Amazingly I met twins Rebecca + Catherine from Whitby….. they live just an hours drive from my home town of Harrogate on the Yorkshire coast!
On the ascent to Col de la Forlaz 1,526 metres (5,006 feet) I met Marlene + Beth from Tennessee.
I am now settled into my accommodationin in Triente at La Grande Ourse…. my dormitory is new and quite spacious….. just chatting to fellow TMB walkers before our evening meal at 7pm.
Just to say I am loving walking the TMB!!!!…. the incredible mountain scenery combined with the joy of meeting TMB walkers from around the world!!!! Totally, totally awesome!!!!
TMB Day 10…. Wednesday 9th August 2023 …..
Champex 1,466 metres (4,809 feet) to Triente 1,279 metres (4,196 feet)
Totally, totally awesome day!
I know fellow MacsAdventurers have probably seen the black+white photo of Lynne and I but there is a very special reason for posting it today! It is exactly 50 years ago today that the photo was taken on our first overseas adventure together…..10th August 1973!!!! It was in Switzerland…..actually it is the Monch behind us….. the famous Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau in the Bernese Oberland. We were 19 years old…. student teachers….. we had no money but we camped and walked for 3 weeks in this wonderful alpine area. As some of you know I lost Lynne to cancer 5 years ago but she wanted me to walk the Camino de Santiago for her…. I did this for 7 weeks in 2019! Today she was in my heart, my mind and my spirit as I walked this incredible Day 11 on my TMB!!!! I am now passionate about long distance hiking…. all brilliantly organised by MacsAdventure!!!
Today I met so many TMB hikers….. it was fantastic!! Especially meeting fellow 70 year olds from Taiwan….. we were all born in 1953!!!! It made me think that ‘70 is the new 30!!!’ I met Kristina from the Czech Republic with her beautiful TMB hairstyle! Finally Lawrence even older than me at 73 doing his local walk from Montroc…. he is originally from Devon.
I am now relaxed sat with fellow TMB hikers outside our Auberge La Boerne….. its a warm and very pleasant early evening!
Thanks MacsAdventure!!!!….. I’m loving my TMB!!!
Lynne and I on our first overseas travel adventure together . . .
. . . to Switzerland in 1973 . . . exactly 50 years ago TODAY!!!
TMB Day 11…. Thursday 10th August 2023 . . . Trient 1,279 metres (4,196 feet) to Col de Balme 2,191 metres (7,188 feet)…… then climbing to Aiguillette des Possettes 2,201 metres (7,221 feet)….. long steep descent to Tre-le-Champ 1,417 metres (4,648 feet).
I really hope you have enjoyed your virtual hike with me on Days 6 to 11 of my Tour du Mont Blanc adventure! I will be uploading my final days on the TMB in the New Year . . . it is a totally awesome trail around the Mont Blanc Massif . . . the highest mountain in Western Europe.
Once again I would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone at Macs Adventure for your brilliant organistation and support.
Also to say "Hi!" to the many MacsAdventurers and other TMB walkers from all over the world that I met on the trail! Finally thank you to everyone on the TMB FB group . . . the advice, daily support and photo were so helpful before and during my TMB.
I would love to hear from you either by commenting directly to this blog or by secure email as outlined in the 'Contact' section of my website . . . 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains'.
Regards
David
"Sometimes, you just need to change your altitude!!"