Blog Posts

Camino de Santiago - 'The Way of St James' (2)

6/26/2019

Click on the above slideshow to view the many wonderful pilgrims I met while walking the Camino!

Pilgrims . . . . I met so many fantastic people while walking on the Camino. Sometimes it was just for a few minutes while walking alongside someone on the trail or with others I would get to know them really well. This was especially the case when I was staying at the same accommodation for several days in a row. It was amazing how 'deep' conversations could become soon after meeting a fellow pilgrim for the first time. For me meeting people from all over the world was one of the main highlights of walking the Camino. Everyone was walking for a reason!

Panoramic view from Alto Altar Mayor at 1535 metres (5,036 feet) above sea level.

David stood by the cairn at Alto Altar Mayor, 1535 metres, the highest point on the Camino!

Camino High Point . . . . On Friday 3rd May (Camino Day 28) en-route to Molinaseca from Rabanal del Camino I reached the highest point on the Camino. The cairn is at 1,535 metres (5,036 feet) above sea level. It was only a 200 metre detour off the main Camino route but all the other pilgrims just walked past and ignored it even though it was clearly marked in John Brierley's pilgrim guide. There were only two of us there at this incredible highpoint with 360 degree panoramic views. A fellow pilgrim from Berlin in Germany took the above photo of me at the cairn. We had a great view down to Ponferrada on the western horizon. It was another special moment on what had been an emotional day following my time at Cruz de Ferro a few hours earlier.

David at Cruz de Ferro 1,504 metres (4,934 feet) above sea level. I am holding the two special
stones I brought from England to place at the foot of this cross on the Camino.

These are the two special stones I brought from England to leave at the foot of the cross
at Cruz de Ferro.

Cruz de Ferro . . . . It was Camino Day 28. I had left Rabanal del Camino early in the morning, just as the bells of the 12th century Iglesia Santa Maria rang out across the town. I knew it was going to be an emotional day because later on the walk I would be arriving at Cruz de Ferro. After a few hours I reached this amazing simple iron cross set on a weathered pole at what seems like a doorway through the mountains. Over many centuries countless pilgrims have left a special stone at the foot of the cross. This pile of stones is now several metres high as you can see on the photo above. It is now one of the abiding symbols of the Camino de Santiago.
The stones in my hand are the ones I brought in my rucksack from England. The left hand stone is in memory of Lynne. I had collected it a few weeks earlier on the slopes of Great Whernside in the Yorkshire Dales. I had been descending from the summit, through an area of moorland, when I spotted this stone lying on the peat between boulders of millstone grit. I knew instantly that this was the stone I needed to take with me on the Camino to place at the foot of the cross at Cruz de Ferro. The stone on the right I collected on a walk up to the summit of Blackstone Edge, the week before I left home for the Camino. It had been a mini-pilgrimage to the mountain which rises above my home village of Littleborough in Lancashire. So this was my stone to place at Cruz de Ferro.
I was overcome with emotion as I placed the stones (see photo above on the right) at the foot of the cross at Cruz de Ferro. I was walking the Camino de Santiago in memory of Lynne and as a tribute to our wonderful 46 years together. This was a moment of great significance to me as I thought about Lynne. She was/is the love of my life, my soul mate and best friend. Tears flowed freely as I stood in prayer at the foot of the cross!

David elated at Monte do Gozo with his first view of the distant towers
of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

Santiago de Compostela . . . . Santiago at last!!!!!!

I was so excited and overwhelmed at seeing the great city of Santiago de Compostela after walking on the Camino for 39 days!! It was a beautiful sunny day as I walked into the city. That morning I had walked from Opino through eucalyptus forest with dappled sunlight filtering down onto the trail. I couldn't believe I had walked for 500 miles from the French Pyrenees, across northern Spain, to reach Santiago!

David arriving in the spectacular Plaza do Obradorio! The 'Golden Square' with the great Cathedral along one side. It is truly awesome.

David with fellow pilgrims Susanna, Pia and Cathy. We were ecstatic at completing the Camino!!!

A couple of days to rest and 'catch up' with fellow pilgrims!

It was a very emotional moment when I collected my 'Compostela' certificate from the pilgrim office. After collecting my compostela I attended the English Mass in the chapel next door. I was so pleased to be asked to read the gospel reading. One of the English speaking 'Camino Companions', an Irish nun from Cork in Ireland, asked if I'd like to join other pilgrims for coffee and a chat upstairs about our experiences while walking the Camino.
It was wonderful to listen to all the different stories not only about our Camino walk but the reasons that had led to them decide to undertake this amazing pilgrimage. As we finished our meeting, just as the cathedral bells deeply donged in the cathedral, our Camino Companion said that she would like to take me back down to the pilgrim office. She said that after hearing my story about me walking the Camino in memory of Lynne she felt it was important for me to have Lynne's name recorded on my compostela certificate. She took me past the very long queue of pilgrims waiting to receive their compostelas right up to the official who had earlier given me my certificate. She asked him in Spanish to record on my compostela that I had walked the Camino in memory of Lynne! I was overcome with joy at this very special moment knowing that Lynne would have been so thrilled that I had done it for her. Wow!!! . . . . what an awesome and wonderful moment!!!

My Camino ''compostela' certificate with Lynne's name added at the bottom!

Both my compostela certificates, written in Latin, are now proudly mounted in my hallway alongside a map of the camino route from St Jean Pied de Port in France out to the Atlantic Ocean.

Pilgrims about to leave Santiago de Compostela for the next stage
of the Camino out to Finisterre on the Atlantic Ocean.

"Walk with me to the ocean!" . . . .

So on Friday 17th May 2019 I was back on the road again! I left Santiago early in the morning for this final stage of my camino. I loved Santiago but I was ready to begin this next stage of my adventure! Ahead of me was a seven hour walk on tracks through oak and eucalyptus woodland. It was to take me four days to reach the Atlantic Ocean at Finisterre. But just a couple of miles from Santiago there was a view back to the city and the distant spires of the cathedral. It was an opportunity to reflect on my journey so far and say a prayer of thanks for my safe travels. As I turned round to face the trail I was stunned by a huge rainbow over the hills ahead! It was truly beautiful . . . . "God's promise for the future!'. It was here I remembered that 'still small voice' that I heard months before while on a prayer walk at Scargill in Wharfedale. It quietly whispered several times . . . . "walk with me to the ocean!" So here I was walking onwards to Finisterre on the Atlantic Ocean! It was meant to be!

My final view of the spires of the magnificent Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela!

As I publish this blog on the 'Camino de Santiago - The Way of St James' (2) I can't believe it is already January 2020! Since Lynne died in June 2018 I have only blogged a few times. There are reasons which I am sure you will understand why. But now I feel the time is right to start blogging once again. The grieving process really never ends totally. I miss Lynne so much! However I also know that she would want me to enjoy life to the full! As you are probably aware from more recent blogs that she said to me many times, during her illness, "Keep on travelling!" Since walking on the Camino I have continued to travel with amazing adventures in Singapore, New Zealand, Bali, Rome and Hong Kong. I will blog about these travels in the coming weeks.
In April / May I am so excited at setting off on my next travel adventure to Japan. I will be walking for 6 weeks on the Kumano Kodo and Shikoku pilgrimages plus walking along the ancient Nakasendo Way between Kyoto and Tokyo. In the summer I am walking the entire Pennine Way from Derbyshire northwards up to the Southern Uplands in Scotland. In the Autumn I am going to a remote part of Eastern Nepal to trek for a month around the world's third highest peak, Kanchenjunga. Finally in the Spring of 2021 I am returning to Everest to trek in the Everest/Gokyo region.
Lynne said . . . "Keep on travelling!" So I am!!!

Regards
David
I would love to hear from you either by commenting directly to this blog or by secure email as outlined in the 'Contact' section of my website.

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Camino de Santiago - 'The Way of St James' (1)

6/11/2019

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David at Alto del Perdon (790 metres) infront of the 'Monumento Peregrino'

On the 6th April 2019 I began the journey of a lifetime! It was the start of a seven week adventure walking from St Jean Pied de Port in the French Pyrenees across Northern Spain out to the Atlantic Ocean at Finisterre. It was a very special pilgrimage in memory of my wife Lynne who died in June 2018. It was a very personal tribute to the love of my life, my soul mate, best friend and travelling companion. During our 47 years together we had travelled the world and unsurprisingly she said to me many times before she died . . . "Keep on travelling!" A friend of ours, Heather, visited Lynne during her illness to share her recent experience on walking the Camino de Santiago. We looked at her inspiring photo album of her Camino journey. Later Lynne suggested it might be a wonderful thing for me to do in the future. Of course I said "Yes, but only with you by my side!" Lynne eventually said to me . . . "Do the Camino!" So in April and May I walked for seven weeks on the Camino de Santiago, for officially 560 miles but I know with all the detours and walking even on my 'rest days' in the great cathedral cities it was well over 600 miles! Lynne was with me every step of the way . . . 'in my heart, in my mind and in my spirit!'. We did it together!

I took a detour off the Camino route to visit the beautiful 12th century
Romanesque Church of Santa Maria de Eunate near Puente La Reina

In this initial blog, 'The Way of St James' (1), my aim is to share with you some of the highlights and special moments on my pilgrimage. In the coming days I will add further highlights. In the near future I will upload blogs and photo galleries dedicated to more detailed Camino experiences as I walked through each of the provinces of Navarre, La Rioja, Castilla and Galicia. So in this blog I will share with you my thoughts and reflections, each accompanied by one of my photographs, that hopefully illustrates my feelings at that specific moment in time!

David with fellow pilgrim Stephanie from Hong Kong

One of the great joys of the Camino was meeting fellow pilgrims from all over the world. It was a wonderful opportunity to share 'life stories' and exchange experiences, whether just for a few minutes or for a few hours together. I was delighted to meet Stephanie from Hong Kong, near Sansol, on the day I was walking to Logrono. Lynne and I lived and worked in Hong Kong for eighteen years between 1979 and 1997. Both our daughters, Louisa and Susie, were born there. So I was amazed to learn that Stephanie had attended our ESF schools in her primary and secondary years. Indeed she went to Kennedy School on Hong Kong Island. Lynne taught for a year at the old Kennedy School in 1979/80 but this was well before Stephanie was born! I am so glad our paths crossed on the Camino. I didn't see Stephanie again while walking the Camino. It is very much part of the 'camino journey' that our pilgrim 'pathways' interconnect for many days or sometimes just for one chance meeting!

Camino way-markers signposted the entire route across Northern Spain

I enjoyed the continuity provided by the familiar yellow arrows, 'flecha amarilla', along the entire Camino. Occasionally, just as I worried that I was possibly on the wrong path, a reassuring yellow arrow would come into view. Usually if I did come off the trail it was when I was distracted by the glorious landscape or being deep in conversation with a fellow pilgrim. It was then a simple matter of back-tracking to find the 'flecha amarilla'. The concept of the yellow arrow to way mark the Camino was created by the parish priest, Don Elias Valina Sampedro, in 1984. The yellow arrow, now an international symbol of the Camino de Santiago, is painted by brush on roads, fences, lamp-posts, rocks and trees. I visited his final resting place in the 9th century Iglesia de Santa Maria Real in O'Cebreiro.

The yellow arrow is often accompanied by the historical symbol of the shell or scallop. It has been sculpted in stone in churches and monuments since the 12th century. It is now found, alongside the yellow arrows, on the way markers along the Camino de Santiago. The shell of this precious mollusc has been fished off the coast of Galacia for millennia and it quickly became the symbol of 'The Way'. The shell was originally a prize for completing the pilgrimage and unique proof of it, since its sale was prohibited in other places that were not Santiago.

Pilgrims approaching Redecilla del Camino

Enjoying a chat with fellow pilgrims near Alto de Erro on approach to Zubiri

Throughout my Camino there was the constant re-assuring presence of fellow pilgrims either behind me or in-front. Occasionally I took a detour to a more remote church or up into the hills. It was at these times I was usually walking on my own. The beauty of walking the Camino is that you always have a choice, whether to be alone or be in the company of others. Throughout every day, as I walked, I prayed and thought about Lynne, feeling her presence in my heart, mind and spirit. There were wonderful opportunities to share deep and meaningful life stories, often just within minutes of meeting someone. Sometimes I was able to just walk in relaxed silence alongside another pilgrim. For me one of the highlights of walking the Camino de Santiago was meeting fellow pilgrims from all over the world.

"Buen Camino!"

"Buen Camino" is the universal greeting between all pilgrims. Everyone you meet, that is fellow walkers, cyclists and local Spanish people, will always say "Buen Camino"! It literally means have a good journey or a good camino. I also encountered the saying . . . "Ultreia" . . . which goes a bit deeper than 'Buen Camino' by implying the encouragement to keep going, reaching 'beyond' and to 'head onwards'. It comes from Latin and means 'beyond'. It is believed medieval pilgrims greeted each other with "Ultreia, Suseia, Santiago", meaning 'beyond, upwards, Santiago'. It is also thought that "Ultreia' was used in the same way as 'Hallelujah', once pilgrims finally reached Santiago de Compostela. However it was only on a few occasions that someone said "Ultreia" to me.

The sound of the cuckoo by the Canal de Castilla near Fromista

Every day while walking on the Camino I listened to the almost constant background sound of birdsong, especially the call of the cuckoo and the beautiful song of the blackbird. All the way across Northern Spain I loved watching swallows and house-martins swooping and diving across the landscape. The acrobatic swallows feeding above the lagoon on the outskirts of El Burgo Ranero were truly amazing to watch. On approaching most towns and villages there would often be the noisy bill-clattering of the adult male white stork high up in a massive nest on top of a church bell-tower, mast or chimney! The loud drilling of a woodpecker was quite common on a woodland trail. I often recognised the circling flight of the red kite, but especially in the more mountainous stretches of the Camino I was treated to the majestic sight of buzzards and eagles 'riding the thermals'.

Water fountain in the hamlet of La Faba on the way to O'Cebreiro

The sound of moving water was another constant background sound to my Camino. Along the entire 'Way' there are abundant water fountains provided by benefactors long ago. You can hear the splashing of the water into the trough below from quite a distance! The trickling sound of water in streams flowing off surrounding hillsides was a refreshing addition to the accompanying birdsong. Almost everywhere across northern Spain I could hear the gurgling and rushing of water in irrigation channels in farmland alongside the Camino.

David lighting a candle in memory of Lynne in Iglesia de Nuestra Sra. de la Concepcion
in the village of Hontanas

I loved every second, every minute, every hour and every day walking on the Camino de Santiago. It was an awesome experience in all aspects, physically, mentally and especially spiritually! I made sure that if a church or cathedral was open I would go inside to pray and enjoy the unique atmosphere to be found in these sacred spaces. If at all possible I would take every opportunity to light a candle in memory of Lynne. It is a wonderful feeling knowing there is a 'trail of candles' across the entire Camino devoted to the love of my life, my soul mate, my best friend and travelling companion . . . Lynne!

Stunning views on the 400 metre climb up onto the Ruta Pradela detour
after leaving Villafranca del Bierzo

The above photo, taken on the Ruta Pradela, is just one of many stunning landscapes I encountered while walking on the Camino de Santiago! I am going to end this first blog with a short video, one of many I created while on the Camino, that hopefully captures the excitement and wonder I felt at the time.

This blog, entitled 'The Way of St James' (1), will be followed by further highlights in the next few days.

I would love to hear from fellow pilgrims who I met while walking on the Camino de Santiago and anyone else who may have enjoyed reading my blog. You can contact me either by commenting directly on this blog or by secure email found in the 'Contact' section of my website.

"Buen Camino!!!"

Regards
David

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Keep on travelling . . . . Camino Training 2019!

3/14/2019

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David on the Summit of Great Whernside in the Yorkshire Dales February 2019

This is my first blog since August 2018. My wife Lynne said to me in the months before she died in June 2018 . . . "please keep on travelling!" We also discussed the possibility of me walking the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage sometime in the future. Lynne was/is the love of my life, my soul mate and my best friend. I decided at her 'Thanksgiving Service' in early July that I would walk the Camino in the Spring of 2019. So here we are and in just three weeks from today I set off on this journey of a lifetime. I know that throughout my seven weeks of walking from the French Pyrenees, across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela and beyond to the Atlantic Ocean at Finisterre Lynne will be with me every step of 'The Way'!!

David on the Summit of Green Bell in the Howgills January 2019

I started my serious Camino Training at the beginning of January 2019. Above is a picture of me on the summit of Green Bell in the Howgills. I was so fortunate to have the opportunity to go 'wild camping' with my friend Jake from church. It was an exciting and inspiring experience. Jake is a fully qualified mountain leader so it was great to be outdoors with him in the wilds of the Howgill Fells.

Jake setting up the tent and me enjoying an evening meal in the presence of 'Stanley' Jake's faithful whippet!!

This adventure in the Howgill Fells was to be first of three months of serious training for the Camino de Santiago. From January to March I have been doing regular Camino Training walks, several times a week, ranging from 12 to 22 miles. I have up-loaded a new gallery of photographs entitled 'Keep on Travelling . . . .Camino Training 2019' in the 'Photography' section of my website. I have discovered that I have developed a real passion for long-distance walking! It is something I would like to continue after I have completed the Camino. Indeed I have already organised walking for 5 weeks in Japan in the Spring of 2020! I will be doing the famous Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage plus the Shikoku Pilgrimage Trail, Mount Koya trail and the Nakasendo Way between Kyoto and Tokyo. Excited!!!!

Early morning start on an 18 mile walk around Derwentwater plus detouring up to Watendlath Tarn and
over into Borrowdale. Truly awesome views of the lake!

So three weeks from today I will be travelling by train from Harrogate down to Stansted Airport where I will be staying overnight in an airport hotel. I then fly to Biarritz in France where I will then transfer to St Jean Pied de Port for the start of my Camino! At the moment the pass over the Pyrenees is closed due to snow but it is scheduled to open on the 1st April.

David walking along the banks of the River Nidd on the Nidderdale Way February 2019

This photo is of Lynne and I at Everest Base Camp in Tibet in 2016 was just months before she was diagnosed with her terminal cancer. Lynne and I loved travelling together. Lynne said to me many times in her final months . . . . "Keep on travelling!" She was so keen for me to do the Camino de Santiago. So in just three weeks time I will set foot on my 560 mile pilgrimage in memory of Lynne. It is my tribute to a beautiful and wonderful woman who was such a caring, generous and passionate human being! I love her and miss her so much!!!

I am not planning to engage in 'social media' or 'blog' on my website whilst walking the Camino. I feel strongly it is 'my time with God' and as such a very personal journey. However most of all I look forward to meeting fellow pilgrims from all over the world. Of course I feel Lynne will be with me every step of 'The Way'!

I have uploaded a new gallery of Camino Training photos in the 'Photography' section of my website. Just click on 'Photographs' above and it will take you to the 'Keep on Travelling . . . Camino Training 2019' gallery. If you hover your mouse over the first photo you will see that it is possible to view it as a slideshow. Of course the gallery is best viewed on a computer or laptop but it is still possible to watch it on a mobile phone. I hope you enjoy it!

I would love to hear from you before I set off on the Camino!! You can do so by the secure email available in the 'Contact' section above or just by commenting on my blog.

"Buen camino!!!"
David
xx

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Lynne said to me . . . . "Keep on travelling!"

8/31/2018

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Lynne enjoying the tulips at the Keukenhof Gardens in The Netherlands

The photo above of Lynne amongst the tulips in the Keukenhof Gardens was taken on Thursday 10th May 2018. Lynne had always wanted to see the tulips at Keukenhof. We enjoyed four days exploring this area from our base in Noordwijk aan Zee. We had a day by the sea, a day at the Keukenhof Gardens, a third day amongst the windmills and polders at Zaanse Schans and a final day in the old city of Delft. Once again P + O Ferries were superb in making our time on-board the ferries from Hull to Rotterdam and return truly excellent with regards accessibility. Unknown to us at the time this was to be the last travel adventure that Lynne and I would be together.

Lynne enjoying an 'aperol spritz' at the seaside in Noordwijk aan Zee

Lynne amongst the amazing windmills at Zaanse Schans

Just three weeks later Lynne was taken into the Bexley Cancer Wing at St James's Hospital in Leeds with complications due to her cancer. After ten days in hospital she became very poorly. As a family we were so grateful that the Palliative Care Team at St James's managed to secure a room for Lynne at St Gemma's Hospice in Leeds. The care and support that Lynne, and ourselves as a family, were given by the staff at St Gemma's was truly wonderful. Lynne had a ground floor room looking out onto the beautiful gardens. I was able to stay overnight with Lynne. As a family we were able to be constantly close to Lynne during her last few days. Close friends said their good-byes on the Sunday and our rector Simon led a short service for Lynne, Louisa, Susie and I on the Monday. That Monday night Louisa and Susie joined me overnight to be constantly at Lynne's bedside. Our family were all able to say their final words to Lynne. At 1.29.pm on Tuesday 19th June 2018 Lynne died peacefully with us all present at her bedside.

On Thursday 5th July 2018, after a private family service at Harrogate Crematorium, a Service of Thanksgiving was held at St John's Chuch. It was a wonderful celebration of Lynne's life. The church flower team, who Lynne was a part of, decorated the whole church with beautiful flower arrangements. Our church worship band played so many of the songs Lynne loved before and during the service. Louisa, Susie and I displayed over one hundred scrapbook pages on the church columns and walls. They all represented Lynne and showed many aspects of her life, especially our travels. Lynne had chosen three hymns for the Thanksgiving . . . 'There is a redeemer', 'Praise is rising' and 'In Christ Alone'. Simon, our vicar and friend, read the tribute to Lynne I had written. Then the most moving and beautiful part of the service was Louisa and Susie singing a duet called 'Oceans'. It was so special and Lynne would have loved it! Our curate and friend, Ruth, read the bible reading from 2 Corinthians 4 verses 16 to 5 in verse 7 which had a very special meaning to Lynne and I in the last few days of her life.
Simon's address was based on the sure knowledge that Lynne is in the safe hands of Jesus. He explained how Lynne didn't want to die, but she was most definitely ready to meet her maker, to place her hand in His, and to journey forward without any fear. This was because she knew deeply that the best was yet to come, that she was going home to her heavenly Father, to the dwelling place Jesus had prepared for her through His death and ressurection. To sum up Lynne in a few words Simon chose . . . . loving, warm, engaging, outgoing, enthusiastic, funny, dynamic, chatty, battling, courageous, inspirational and unique. He said that Lynne has left an indelible mark on all our hearts, and she will always be very dear to us.
Everyone stayed for refreshments after the service. It was so good to chat to what was over one hundred and fifty people who had attended the Thanksgiving. There were friends from our college days, our church family, Richard Taylor School and many others. Over £600 was raised for St Michael's Hospice, St Gemma's Hospice and Yorkshire Cancer Care. I am sure that Lynne would have thought the occasion was just perfect. I am so pleased it was such a joyful celebration of Lynne's life.

David beside the polder at Zaanse Schans

"Keep on travelling!!" . . . . . In the last few months of her life Lynne said many times to me "Keep on travelling!" This is a promise I am going to keep! I just can't believe that over ten weeks have gone by since Lynne died. She wanted me to continue working on my website 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains' and to share our love of travel through my blogs. In September I am going to Switzerland to travel on some of its great mountain railways such as the Glacier Express and the Bernina Express. In October I am in Spain staying at a christian retreat run by friends who used to live in Harrogate. Part of my time there is a photography workshop entitled 'Seeing Differently'. But my biggest travel adventure is in April and May of 2019 . . . . .

Pilgrim 'shell' way-marker on the Camino de Santiago

In April and May of next year I am walking the entire 500 mile route of the Camino from St Jean-Pied-du-Port near Biarritz in France, across northern Spain, to Compostela de Santiago. I will be on my own, taking 40 days to complete the pilgrimage. However I know I will be meeting many other pilgrims along 'The Way'. Lynne and I talked about me doing the Camino one day and so I feel now is the 'right' time! I am doing the pilgrimage in 'Lynne's memory'. Anyway more about the Camino and my other travels in later blogs.

David and Lynne near the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau in Switzerland in August 1973

So I would like to end this blog with a huge thank you to Lynne for being my wonderful wife and travelling partner over the years. Above is a photo of Lynne and I on our first overseas adventure 46 years ago! I said to Lynne on our second date. . . . "I am going to travel the world, do you want to come with me?" She said "YES!" As the months go by I am really missing Lynne but I know I have to 'keep on travelling!!'

Regards
David

*** I would love to hear from you. You can contact me by secure email through my 'Contact' page on this website or by a 'comment on my blog'.

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On our travels again!

4/14/2018

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Lynne at the Giant's Causeway

A few weeks ago my family and I enjoyed a few days holiday in Northern Ireland. It was quite an adventure as it was the first time we had been away for a week since my wife Lynne was diagnosed with cancer back in October 2016. I am delighted to say that Lynne remained well throughout our visit. Our Ford Grand Torneo was loaded up with the wheelchair and all the equipment we needed to take with us. We spent a night in Scotland on either side of our ferry crossing. P+O Ferries were brilliant regarding Lynne's accessibility in the wheelchair. A particular joy was spending time with our son-in-law's family in Broughshane near Ballymena. We enjoyed our visit back to the Giants Causeway. However unlike our visit two years ago the area was extremely crowded this time, as you can see on the above photo. Luckily we could get down to the rocky seashore as the National Trust mini-bus had a wheelchair ramp. Throughout our five night stay in Northern Ireland we enjoyed the delights of staying at the Oranmore Guesthouse, which was fully accessible for Lynne.

At Portstewart we were amazed to find we could drive along the beach!

We spent a wonderful morning in the Seamus Heaney HomePlace Centre in the village of Bellaghy

One of the highlights for me was a visit to the Sean Heaney HomePlace visitor centre in the village of Bellaghy. Seamus Heaney has always been one of my favourite poets. Our visit was truly inspirational. The wonderful interactive exhibition took us on a journey through the life and literature of one of Ireland's greatest writers. There were lots of personal stories, photographs and artefacts which were accompanied by the voice of the poet himself. We were able to experience the impact of the people who inspired him and the places of his childhood and formative years.

An extract from 'Digging' perhaps Seamus Heaney's most famous poem

I plan to write more about our visit to Bellaghy in a future blog. However just as Heaney was inspired to write poems about his younger days in this beautiful part of County Londonderry it made me think about my childhood. I decided to find a draft poem I wrote a while ago about an experience when I was ten years old. So my poem 'Beasts' came to light. You can find it in the poetry section of 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains'.

Blackstone Edge, apart from Everest, my favourite peak in the world!

I was born and raised in the village of Littleborough in Lancashire. It is now supposed to be part of Greater Manchester but I don't recognise this as to me it is still very much in Lancashire. Littleborough has always been of great geographical interest as just beyond the village the canal, railway and road squeeze through the Summit Gap into Yorkshire. Another delight is that Littleborough is dominated by the Pennines, especially the heights of Blackstone Edge. I have been fortunate in our travels to see many of the world's highest mountains but to me Blackstone Edge still holds an important place in my heart.

This is Helmsdale, the bungalow my dad built in the early 1960's. This photo
was a bit of a sad moment as we had just sold the bungalow in 2015, after my mum died in 2011.

My dad managed his own building firm in Littleborough. He specialised in creating bathrooms in houses that have previously just had an outside toilet. He later moved onto installing central heating as it became popular in the late 1960's. Around 1963 he built a bungalow on the Blackstone Edge side of the valley. It was just beyond the canal bridge, an area known as Durn, just below the 17th century Rake Inn. His workshop was across the road in an old three storey building built in the early 19th century. Even today I can clearly recall the smell of wood shavings, copper pipes and new plasterboard in his workshop. My dad died in 1981.

'The Arches' railway viaduct in Littleborough
* photo courtesy of Wikipedia

My daily walk to school from our bungalow took me over the canal bridge and then under the railway. The bridge over the A58 was a railway viaduct locally called 'The Arches'. On either side of the road arch were two pedestrian arches. On the other side of The Arches was a bridge over the River Roch leading to the village of Littleborough itself. I used to love going through the arch when a train was going overhead! I could almost feel the stonework shaking as the train either approached the nearby station or accelerated on its journey through the Pennines.

Littleborough Station
* photo courtesy of Wikipedia

Sometime soon after we moved into our bungalow in Durn I witnessed the dramatic rescue of a derailed steam engine that took place on top of The Arches. I was about ten years old. I seem to remember I was on my way to a 'cub-scouts' meeting in the village. It was probably in the winter months as it was dark. As I approached The Arches a partially derailed steam engine was enveloped in a mass of steam and sparks. Eventually two other coupled steam engines arrived to attempt to haul the derailed engine back onto the rails. It was an awesome sight and the inspiration for my poem 'Beasts!'.

I hope you have enjoyed reading my latest blog. You need to go to 'Poetry' to read my poem 'Beasts!'

I would love to hear from you. Please get in touch either by the secure email facility available in 'Contact' above or by a comment on this blog.
Thanks
David

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Best Christmas Present Ever!

1/28/2018

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Christmas has come and gone. I had the best Christmas present ever when Lynne came home from hospital late on Christmas Eve! To wake up on Christmas Day in her own bed was wonderful. We all enjoyed a truly special family Christmas.

Last week Lynne had her 18th chemotherapy session at St James's University Hospital in Leeds. Her chemo treatment is every three weeks. It is now well over a year since her cancer diagnosis back in October 2016, just a few months after our return from Tibet. Despite quite a few hospital admissions over the last year, due to infections, she continues to be positive and up-beat. Her latest scan a couple of weeks ago showed everything was stable which was very good news. We are now looking forward to the Spring and the chance to get out and about.

So blogs and website up-dates to 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains' are just when I get the chance to work on them. It usually takes a few days to plan and write a blog, writing in short bursts. So as you can see from my archive that my last blog was back in November. This time I have decided to upload an entry from one of my Hong Kong journals. I wrote it in 1996 which was our penultimate year in the Far East.

One of the highlights of living in Hong Kong was the opportunity to explore its spectacular and varied landscapes. A walk we did several times was located in the north-east New Territories. It was from Wu Kau Tang to Lai Chi Wo. Indeed the first time we did it was as a training walk for one of our Nepal treks in the early 1980's. This walk from my 1996 Hong Kong Journal is one we did with our girls Louisa then aged ten and Susanna aged six.
Hong Kong Journal 1996

*** You can find this HK journal entry in the 'Travel Journals' section above ***

Two cannons in the courtyard at the entrance to Lai Chi Wo

The destination for this walk was the village of Lai Chi Wo. It has a history of several hundred years. It eventually became a walled Hakka village with up to 600 inhabitants in prosperous times. The Hakkas are Han Chinese who settled in the late Ming and Qing dynasties in the imperial district of Xin-An (now Shenzhen and Hong Kong). They settled in coastal areas in inlets and bays surrounded by hills.

East Gate entrance to Lai Chi Wo

Around a hundred years ago Lai Chi Wo was going through a difficult time. At that time a feng shui master suggested the building of three feng shui walls to rid the village of evil spirits and keep the village safe. The three walls were duly erected and the village regained its prosperity. The East Gate (see above) is the main entrance to the village. The engraved sentence above the gate reads 'The purple cloud comes from the East'. In Chinese, purple means good fortune. The objective of the engraving is to hope highly placed or high-ranking government officials and noble lords would come into the village, helping to make it prosperous and flourishing settlement.

Footpath through 'Tolkien' landscape beyond Wu Kau Tang

Ginger growing in-front of Sam Uk Ha village near the start of our walk to Lai Chi Wo

Since the 1960's many residents of Lai Chi Wo and surrounding villages have moved out. They have gone to towns such as Tai Po or Fanling in Hong Kong or even emigrated overseas. This typically leaves just older residents living in the village. However many do return to Lai Chi Wo for celebrations such as the village bun festival called 'Tai Ping Qing Zhao' held once every ten years.

Threshing machine outside abandoned village

Since 2005 Lai Chi Wo has been recognised by the Hong Kong Government as a place of important heritage to be preserved for future generations. Through the efforts of local villagers, academics and conservationists rice and vegetables are once again being grown around the village plus the pig and cow sheds have been restored. More intrepid tourists to Hong Kong can now join organised walks in the area including a visit to Lai Chi Wo.

Coastal inlet near Lai Chi Wo

Abandoned village we explored en-route from Wu Kau Tang to Lai Chi Wo

I am amazed that it is over twenty years since we did this walk in the north-east New Territories. The following year we left Hong Kong, shortly after the Handover to China, to return to the UK. I am so pleased I have written my travel journals as in reading them today I am immediately transported back in time to enjoy our past adventures.

David, Susanna and Louisa enjoying the view on our approach to Lai Chi Wo

Susanna on the rocky foreshore near Lai Chi Wo just before sunset

Lynne on the contour footpath on the slopes of Tin Tang Lung

The above three photos are digital copies of three prints actually taken on the day of the walk. The other photos are digital copies of slides taken on an earlier walk to the same location.

Footpath through 'Tolkien' landscape between Wu Kau Tang and Lai Chi Wo

I hope you have enjoyed reading my blog!
You need to go to 'Travel Journals' to read the actual Hong Kong Journal account of the walk from Wu Kau Tang to Lai Chi Wo.
I would love to hear from you. Please get in touch either by the secure email facility available in 'Contact' above or by a comment on this blog.

Just to add that as I post this blog this afternoon Lynne is back in hospital in Leeds with another infection. I am hoping she will be back home soon..

Regards
David

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ASCENT!

11/6/2017

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Chris Bonington's latest book 'ASCENT'

On Thursday 19th October Lynne and I attended a lunch and talk by Sir Chris Bonington at The Crown Hotel in Harrogate. It was part of the Harrogate Literary Festival supported by the Yorkshire Post. The room was beautifully set up for a two course lunch. As we enjoyed our complimentary glass of wine before the meal we appreciated a photographic journey on a large screen of dramatic shots taken throughout his climbing career plus others from his younger days.

After the meal Sir Chris was interviewed by historian and writer Julie Summers. She is the great niece of Sandy Irvine one of my heroes from the 1924 British Everest Expedition. He perished alongside George Mallory near the summit over ninety years ago. Her book 'Fearless on Everest - The Quest for Sandy Irvine' is part of my Everest book collection. It is an excellent book made very exciting by her discovery in May 2000 of a long forgotten and unopened trunk in the attic of an Irvine family home containing a stash of unsuspected source material including Irvine's letters and photographs of Everest!

* photo of Julie Summers courtesy of Ingrid Rasmussen

Julie asked Sir Chris some fascinating questions, not just about his expeditions and climbing, but insights into his life in general from his early childhood up to the present day. Time passed so quickly. I could have listened to them both all afternoon but because the venue was needed for the next Literary Festival speaker we had to vacate the room after just over an hour with only a couple of questions from the audience.

Sir Chris moved through to a different room for signing his latest book, just out that day, 'ASCENT - A life spent climbing on the edge". On the front cover Leo Houlding states:

"Reads like the pages from an epic saga with
all the battle and victory, triumph and tragedy,
love and loss one would expect of a mythical hero."

I am now over half way through reading the book. It is excellent! As Britain's best known climber he shares both his passion for climbing as well as many aspects of his personal life. Of course along with the successes came the agony of friends losing their lives in the mountains. He did finally reach the summit of Everest at the age of fifty one in 1985. He is now in his early eighties but still retains his passion for mountains and remote places on earth. He is open and honest about the devastating fatal illness of his wife Wendy who died in 2014. In 2016 he married Loreto, the wife of his old friend Ian McNaught-Davies, who also died in 2014. I was truly inspired by the vitality and love of life that Sir Chris displays to everyone he meets. I hope if I reach my eighties I will be able to share my passion for life.

Over the years our paths have crossed. I was really fortunate to spend a few minutes with Sir Chris as he signed my copy of 'ASCENT'. I am also pleased to say that he has visited my website 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains'. I showed him an original postcard signed by himself and the entire climbing team at Everest Base Camp during the 1982 expedition. I gave him a copy of the postcard. You can see a photo of this postcard later in this blog.

I have been fortunate enough to hear many talks over the years by Sir Chris. Indeed the first was back in 1976 following the successful 1975 British Everest South West Face Expedition. We even went to an illustrated talk while living in Hong Kong. It was an account of the 1981 Kongur Expedition to China. Since 1997 we have been living back in the UK and I have been to several talks either about his climbing life or specific expeditions such as that to Sepu Kangri described by Sir Chris as Tibet's Secret Mountain. Amazingly we had been quite close to Sepu Kangri during our travels in Tibet in 2016 when we crossed over the Nyenchen Tanglha range. During early talks Sir Chris always used a pair of Kodak Carousel slide projectors. It was probably because of this that I also invested in a Kodak Carousel so that we could project our own travel slides to a more professional standard.

Books in my Himalayan collection devoted to expeditions to Kongur and Sepu Kangri

In the mid 1970's I was teaching at Cross Hall Junior School in Morley near Leeds. My class and I did an exciting project following the 1975 British Everest Expedition. I was so lucky to get one of the climbing team to come and talk to my class. It was Mike Rhodes who worked for Barclays Bank in Bradford. Barclays were one of the main sponsors of the expedition. It was so exciting as he shared his account of the successful expedition plus showing us his tent and climbing gear. We even did a school visit to Dewsbury Town Hall to see an exhibition about Everest and the expedition. It was about this time I went see an illustrated lecture about the 1975 Everest Expedition by Sir Chris.

The front cover of Chris Bonington's 'Everest the Hard Way'
showing Dougal Haston on the summit of Everest.

The first trek that Lynne and I did in Nepal was to the Annapurna Sanctuary and Base Camp in 1980. We went with a group of friends from Hong Kong. Of course it was necessary reading, while on the trek, to follow in the footsteps of Chris Bonington's expedition to the South Face of Annapurna by reading his book en-route. It was a magnificent triumph for mountaineering and good teamwork that they successfully battled up the seemingly impregnable South Face!
One of the most exciting moments on our trek was when we were camping at Machapuchare Base Camp which is at the mouth of the Annapurna Sanctuary. It was at this point on their 1970 expedition that Don Whillans describes footprints found nearby and a possible sighting of a yeti! He describes how they put down their loads after hearing a noise on the ridge behind them. One of the Sherpas, Pemba Tharkay, looked up and simply said "Yeti coming!" While we were at Machapuchare Base Camp on our trek we read this account in Chris Bonington's 'Annapurna South Face'. It was made even more dramatic when in the darkness we huddled round a candle in our mess tent and our sherpas shared their stories of the yeti! Later as we lay in our sleeping bags we could hear strange noises out in the wilderness!!

We took this photo as we entered the Annapurna Sanctuary on our trek in 1980.
You can see the snow plastered South Face of Annapurna on the right.

Lynne at Machapuchare Base Camp.
The location of the yeti sightings! She is holding a pair of socks frozen
solid as they had been left out overnight to dry on a tent guy rope!

All our trekking team signed the inside cover of my copy of Chris Bonington's
'Annapurna South Face' while on the trek. It is one of my most treasured books in my library.

A couple of years later in 1982 while teaching at Beacon Hill School in Hong Kong I decided to undertake another class project to follow an Everest expedition led by Chris Bonington. It was the 1982 British Everest Expedition to China. Two of the climbers, Adrian Gordon and Dick Renshaw, came into school to be interviewed by the children. I was so lucky to get them to come in person because they were attempting to climb Everest from the Tibetan side so this meant travelling into China via Hong Kong. The expedition was also sponsored by Jardines, Matheson & Co Ltd, a Hong Kong company. The children and I were so excited at meeting Adrian and Dick and the prospect of following the expedition throughout its attempt on the summit of Everest by the unclimbed north-east ridge. It was a fantastic surprise when we all received a personal postcard signed by all members of the expedition at Everest Base Camp in Tibet! It was heartbreaking for my class and I when we learnt of the tragedy of Joe Tasker and Pete Boardman disappearing on the north-east ridge of Everest. Nevertheless we felt we had been part of a truly great adventure to the highest mountain on earth.

Every child in my class plus myself were sent a postcard from Everest Base Camp
in Tibet signed by all the climbing team!!

In 1983 I bought 'EVEREST The Unclimbed Ridge' by Chris Bonington and Charles Clark. It is an account of the 1982 expedition. It is the personal story of Chris Bonington, the leader, and Charles Clark the expedition doctor. It tells of a close-knit team who lost cherished friends. Imagine my surprise when looking closely at the photograph, opposite page 89, of Joe Tasker keeping his filming notes up to date. If you look to the left of the photo you can see a pile of postcards! Looking closely you can make out the address of Beacon Hill School, Kowloon Tong, Kowloon, Hong Kong. Joe was obviously putting his signature to the postcards. You can see his signature above.

The pile of postcards addressed to Beacon Hill School in Hong Kong next to Joe Tasker who is updating his filming notes at Everest Base Camp in Tibet in 1982.

Expedition logo copied by one of the children in my class

I have just got my first Chris Bonington book 'I Chose to Climb' off the bookshelf in my library which holds my 'Bonington Collection'. Inside the front cover is a message "Happy Birthday Dave . . . Love from Lynne x x x x x". In the seventies everyone called me Dave except my mum! Lynne gave it to me in May 1996. This Arrow edition of 'I Chose to Climb' was published in 1975 which was the same year as the successful British South West Face Expedition.

Over the last few days I have really enjoyed re-reading the Foreword by the legendary Eric Shipton and the chapters on Annapurna II - The Summit, Nuptse and Success on the Eiger. I can see why this book truly inspired my love of mountains and travel. Indeed it was at time when we were saving up to travel on the overland route from London to Kathmandu. One of the options was to travel on a London bus for £99!!! In the end we decided the best way to see the world was to go and work abroad. In 1977 we worked in Iran for two years until the Iranian Revolution brought our time there to an end. You can read my poem 'Revolution Friday' in the 'Poetry' section on my website. Then from 1979 until 1997 we lived in Hong Kong. Working abroad for twenty years gave us the incredible opportunity to travel and see the world.

So we come full circle to 2017 and the chance to hear and meet Sir Chris Bonington at the Harrogate Literary Lunch sponsored by the Yorkshire Post. Indeed our paths have crossed from the 1970's until the present day and it was such a pleasure to meet him in person at the book-signing. I would like to thank Sir Chris for writing his amazing books. On the back cover of 'I Chose to Climb' the blurb states . . . .

"Chris Bonington ranks among the leader's of this
generation of mountaineers. This is the story of courage,
endurance and uncompromising dedication."

Over 40 years later this statement is still so true! His latest book 'ASCENT' continues this passionate love of mountains and the remote corners of our amazing world.

Hope you have enjoyed reading my blog. I would love to hear from you either by secure email on my 'Contact' page or by commenting on my blog.

Have a great weekend!
Regards
David

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Kentmere Horseshoe

10/8/2017

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David on the summit of Ill Bell (757 m / 2,493 ft)

Earlier in the summer I spent a wonderful day walking with friends from church. Our challenge was to walk the Kentmere Horseshoe in the Lakes. We left Harrogate around 8am arriving in Staveley a couple of hours later. Staveley, near Kendal, is a pretty village nestled at the foot of the secluded Kentmere Valley. Of course we had to stop for a pre-walk coffee and sausage bap! We enjoyed the delights of Wilf's Cafe which is next door to the Hawkshead Brewery. It is extremely popular with walkers and cyclists. I was so excited at the prospect of a day in the hills.

Lawrence, Jake and Jonathan at Wilf's Cafe in Staveley

Setting off from Kentmere Village

The Kentmere Horseshoe is one of the longest and most remote walks in the Lake District. Jake, our leader, chose the walk because of its quiet location. The plan was to traverse all the fells bounding the upper Kentmere valley and its reservoir. We started walking from the hamlet of Kentmere some four miles north of Staveley. We decided to do the horseshoe in an anti-clockwise direction.

David at the start of the walk with the fells of the Kentmere Horseshoe in the distance

It was a glorious morning with the 'skyscape' just as dramatic as the surrounding fells. We set off across the moorland eventually arriving at our first 'Wainwright' fell of Shipman Knotts at a height of 587 metres (1,926 feet). We had ascended 492 metres (1,614 feet) in just over half an hour. On the way up, we passed a derelict farmhouse, with hawthorn trees in blossom in a nearby pasture.

Hawthorns in blossom as we ascended to Shipman Knotts

The area between Shipman Knotts, passing Goat Scar, to Kentmere Pike is a complicated bit of ground strewn with bumps and outcrops of rock. It felt so good to be on a high level ridge with fantastic views of the surrounding fells. In the distance, to the south, we could clearly see the sandy deposits of Morcambe Bay. It is the largest expanse of intertidal mudflats and sand in the United Kingdom covering a total area of 310 square kilometres.

David, Jake and Jonathan on Harter Fell 778 metres (2,552 feet)

From the summit of Kentmere Pike we had amazing views across the Kentmere Valley to the fells of Yoke, Ill Bell and Froswick. Later in the day we would cross over these summits as we completed the Kentmere Horseshoe. To the southwest we looked down on the distant blue waters of Windermere. Windermere is long and narrow formed 13,000 years ago during the last major ice age. When the glaciers melted the lake filled with meltwater. Kentmere Pike is the highpoint on the ridge between Harter Fell in the north and Shipman Knotts which we had crossed earlier.

Looking down on Small Water, Haweswater Reservoir and across to the distant Northern Pennines.

We were now walking around the upper end of the Kentmere Horshoe. We crossed over Mardale Ill Bell at 760 metres (2,490 feet) on our way to Thornthwaite Crag and its dramatic beacon. To the north we could see the nearby High Street 828 metres (2,718 feet). A roman road crossed over the fell on its journey between the forts at Brougham (Brocavum) near Penrith and Ambleside (Galava). To the south we looked down on Kentmere Reservoir built in 1848 to control the flow of water to the lower pastures of the valley and provide water for a gunpowder mill, snuff mill and paper mill.

View south to the fells of Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke

The impressive stone beacon on Thornthwaite Crag was our next stopping point. It is the focal point of the Far Eastern Fells, standing at the head of several valleys, at a height of 784 metres (2,572 feet). At the intersection of several ridges it is the highest summit on the Kentmere Horseshoe. The impressive cairn known as 'Thornthwaite Beacon' towers over 4 metres (14 feet) above an angle in the stone wall on the summit.

Lawrence, Jake and Jonathan beside the beacon on Thornthwaite Crag

From Thornthwaite Crag we turned south to cross the summits of Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke. Windermere came into view as walked along the ridge with Coniston Old Man and the south western fells visible in the distance. We stopped for a snack and drink on Froswick at 720 metres (2,362 feet). As we looked back across the valley to Harter Fell and Kentmere Pike we could see a low rainbow between their summits. It was amazing to look back at the distance we had walked since earlier in the day.

Windermere, the Troutbeck Valley and distant Coniston Old Man as we descended from Yoke Fell

We eventually descended beside Hall Gill into Kentmere Village. Below we could see Kentmere Hall with its stunning 14th century tunnel-vaulted pele tower. On our left we walked past a huge boulder in the bushes, one of the Kentmere Boulders, where climbers were tackling a route up its rock face.

It was the end of a wonderful walk of over 12 miles. Many thanks to Jake for leading us on the spectacular and isolated Kentmere Horseshoe. We ended the day with a meal at the Hawkshead Brewery back in Staveley.

Of course throughout the day I was thinking about my wife Lynne. I was pleased she was able to go out for the day to Ilkley with her sisters. Lynne continues with her chemotherapy regime in her on-going battle with cancer. She is an amazing and inspiring woman! I really appreciate the opportunity Lynne gave me to be out in the great outdoors for the day. Although a few months have gone by between walking the Kentmere Horseshoe and uploading this blog I often look back to a super day in the south-eastern fells of the Lake District.

Recent scrapbook page I completed on the Kentmere Horseshoe

If you go to 'Scrapbooking' on 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains' you will find the above scrapbook page on the Kentmere Horseshoe plus others devoted to our travels. Thank you for visiting my website. I would love to hear from you. Please get in touch either by the secure email facility on my 'Contact' page or by commenting on my blog.

Regards
David

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'The BIG Picture!'

7/28/2017

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'Big Picture' scrapbook page showing Lynne and David approaching Everest Base Camp Tibet 2016.

I really enjoyed our last scrapbooking workshop in July. Unfortunately Lynne missed it as she had another spell in hospital. I am pleased to say she is now back home and looking forward to our next scrapbooking workshop in August. It was on the theme of using big pictures. We normally use photos from 10x7cm down to 7x4.5cm. My photos for the 'Big Picture' pages are A4!!! It was so exciting to be working on such big photos.

The scrapbooking workshops are held at the Samuel Taylors Craft outlet in Embsay near Skipton. They are led by Virginia Mordey. Each workshop begins with Virginia sharing up to ten of her own scrapbook pages based on that month's theme. Virginia's scrapbook pages are truly inspirational. We are then able to create our own pages based on one of Virginia's pages or if we feel motivated we can attempt one of the scrapbook challenges specially set for the workshop.

My second 'Big Picture' scrapbook page of sunrise on the shores of Lake Namtso Tibet 2016

Despite the large photo we were able to stamp, ink, spray, add texture and decorate with embellishments. You can see on the Everest page above I took the purple colour of Lynne's jacket to spray and smudge the same brush colour ink onto the background page and even up onto the photo itself. I then used a 'London Fog' memento ink to stamp 'travel words' onto the background page. I was even able to stamp onto the photo itself using a darker black ink. I finished off the page with small 'travel' stickers plus some large white title letters for 'EVEREST'. On the second page devoted to Lake Namtso I added two metal embellishments to match the compass stamping. I was really pleased with my pages!

Scrapbook page of David and Lynne at The Potala Lhasa Tibet 2016

Over the last few workshops I have been able to complete ten pages devoted to our travels in Tibet last year. Each page also has a 'journalling tag' which explains 'where?, who?, when?, why?'. The tags are usually hidden behind a photo and can be pulled out to read.

Scrapbook page of Lynne and David at The Jokhang in Lhasa Tibet 2016

If you go to 'Scrapbooking' on 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains' you will find more of my scrapbook pages on Tibet. Thank you for visiting my website. I would love to hear from you. Please get in touch either by the secure email facility on my 'Contact' page or by commenting on my blog.

Regards
David

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My latest poem 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains'

5/6/2017

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David approaching the Kolahoi Glacier Kashmir 1985

My latest poem, 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains', can be found in 'Poetry' on my website. The photographs illustrating the poem were taken on the trek Lynne and I did in Kashmir in 1985. The idea for this poem came to me many years ago but it has taken a long time to crystallise into this finished version. You may realise its importance to me by the fact the poem's title is the same as that of my website.

Over the last week we have been blessed with beautiful sunny days. Lynne and I have enjoyed seeing wild flowers such as the bluebells in Ripley Woods and the wild garlic and primroses at Fountains Abbey. The pure joy of seeing these reminded us of the wild flowers on our trek through the mountains in Kashmir. One of my favourite photos of our time in Kashmir is of Lynne sat amongst the wild flowers on the mountainside.

Lynne Kashmir Trek 1985

*** You can see more photos of our travels in Kashmir in a gallery in 'Photographs'.

Just by coincidence we are enjoying reading together Rosie Thomas's 'The Kashmir Shawl'. I first read it a couple of years ago and so thought Lynne would like it as it is set in Kashmir and Ladakh. We spent a few weeks there in July 1985. We stayed on a beautiful houseboat on Nagin Lake in the Vale of Kashmir. We used it as a base during our time in Kashmir and between our trek in the mountains and an exciting journey over the Himalayas to Ladakh.
Whilst staying on the houseboat we could hear the constant 'plopping' noise of kingfishers diving into the water. The lake was covered in beautiful water lilies. Every day a man in a canoe, called 'Mr Marvellous', came to each houseboat to sell flowers. The sunsets through the billowing distant monsoon clouds over the plains of India were truly breathtaking.

Sunset from our houseboat on Nagin Lake Kashmir

Thank you for visiting 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains'.

Please find my new poem 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains' in 'Poetry' on my website.

You can join us on our adventures in 'Kashmir' in 'Photographs'.

I would love to hear from you. Please get in touch either by the secure email facility on my 'Contact' page or by commenting on my blog.

Regards
David

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David A. Stott

'Beyond the Sacred Mountains' is a website embracing my poetry anthology, photographic gallery, travel journals and scrapbook pages devoted to travel. My blog enables me to share my love of travel with others.

Click on the above slideshow to view the many wonderful pilgrims I met while walking the Camino!

Panoramic view from Alto Altar Mayor at 1535 metres (5,036 feet) above sea level.

David stood by the cairn at Alto Altar Mayor, 1535 metres, the highest point on the Camino!​

David at Cruz de Ferro 1,504 metres (4,934 feet) above sea level. I am holding the two special stones I brought from England to place at the foot of this cross on the Camino.

These are the two special stones I brought from England to leave at the foot of the cross​ at Cruz de Ferro. ​

David elated at Monte do Gozo with his first view of the distant towers of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela​

David arriving in the spectacular Plaza do Obradorio! The 'Golden Square' with the great Cathedral along one side. It is truly awesome.

David with fellow pilgrims Susanna, Pia and Cathy. We were ecstatic at completing the Camino!!!​

A couple of days to rest and 'catch up' with fellow pilgrims!​

My Camino ''compostela' certificate with Lynne's name added at the bottom!​

Both my compostela certificates, written in Latin, are now proudly mounted in my hallway alongside a map of the camino route from St Jean Pied de Port in France out to the Atlantic Ocean.​

Pilgrims about to leave Santiago de Compostela for the next stage of the Camino out to Finisterre on the Atlantic Ocean.​

My final view of the spires of the magnificent Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela!

David at Alto del Perdon (790 metres) infront of the 'Monumento Peregrino'

I took a detour off the Camino route to visit the beautiful 12th century Romanesque Church of Santa Maria de Eunate near Puente La Reina​

David with fellow pilgrim Stephanie from Hong Kong​

Camino way-markers signposted the entire route across Northern Spain​

Pilgrims approaching Redecilla del Camino

Enjoying a chat with fellow pilgrims near Alto de Erro on approach to Zubiri​

"Buen Camino!"

The sound of the cuckoo by the Canal de Castilla near Fromista​

Water fountain in the hamlet of La Faba on the way to O'Cebreiro​

David lighting a candle in memory of Lynne in Iglesia de Nuestra Sra. de la Concepcion in the village of Hontanas​

Stunning views on the 400 metre climb up onto the Ruta Pradela detour after leaving Villafranca del Bierzo​

David on the Summit of Great Whernside in the Yorkshire Dales February 2019

David on the Summit of Green Bell in the Howgills January 2019

Jake setting up the tent and me enjoying an evening meal in the presence of 'Stanley' Jake's faithful whippet!!​

Early morning start on an 18 mile walk around Derwentwater plus detouring up to Watendlath Tarn and ​ over into Borrowdale. Truly awesome views of the lake!​

David walking along the banks of the River Nidd on the Nidderdale Way February 2019​

Lynne enjoying the tulips at the Keukenhof Gardens in The Netherlands​

Lynne enjoying an 'aperol spritz' at the seaside in Noordwijk aan Zee​

Lynne amongst the amazing windmills at Zaanse Schans​

David beside the polder at Zaanse Schans

Pilgrim 'shell' way-marker on the Camino de Santiago​

David and Lynne near the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau in Switzerland in August 1973​

Lynne at the Giant's Causeway

At Portstewart we were amazed to find we could drive along the beach!​

We spent a wonderful morning in the Seamus Heaney HomePlace Centre in the village of Bellaghy​

An extract from 'Digging' perhaps Seamus Heaney's most famous poem

Blackstone Edge, apart from Everest, my favourite peak in the world!

This is Helmsdale, the bungalow my dad built in the early 1960's. This photo was a bit of a sad moment as we had just sold the bungalow in 2015, after my mum died in 2011.​

'The Arches' railway viaduct in Littleborough * photo courtesy of Wikipedia

Littleborough Station * photo courtesy of Wikipedia

Two cannons in the courtyard at the entrance to Lai Chi Wo​

East Gate entrance to Lai Chi Wo​

Footpath through 'Tolkien' landscape beyond Wu Kau Tang​

Ginger growing in-front of Sam Uk Ha village near the start of our walk to Lai Chi Wo​

Threshing machine outside abandoned village​

Coastal inlet near Lai Chi Wo​

Abandoned village we explored en-route from Wu Kau Tang to Lai Chi Wo​

David, Susanna and Louisa enjoying the view on our approach to Lai Chi Wo​

Susanna on the rocky foreshore near Lai Chi Wo just before sunset

Lynne on the contour footpath on the slopes of Tin Tang Lung​

Footpath through 'Tolkien' landscape between Wu Kau Tang and Lai Chi Wo​

Chris Bonington's latest book 'ASCENT'​

* photo of Julie Summers courtesy of Ingrid Rasmussen

Books in my Himalayan collection devoted to expeditions to Kongur and Sepu Kangri​

The front cover of Chris Bonington's 'Everest the Hard Way' showing Dougal Haston on the summit of Everest.​

We took this photo as we entered the Annapurna Sanctuary on our trek in 1980. You can see the snow plastered South Face of Annapurna on the right.​

Lynne at Machapuchare Base Camp. The location of the yeti sightings! She is holding a pair of socks frozen solid as they had been left out overnight to dry on a tent guy rope!​

All our trekking team signed the inside cover of my copy of Chris Bonington's 'Annapurna South Face' while on the trek. It is one of my most treasured books in my library.​

Every child in my class plus myself were sent a postcard from Everest Base Camp​ in Tibet signed by all the climbing team!!​

The pile of postcards addressed to Beacon Hill School in Hong Kong next to Joe Tasker who is updating his filming notes at Everest Base Camp in Tibet in 1982.​

Expedition logo copied by one of the children in my class

David on the summit of Ill Bell (757 m / 2,493 ft)

Lawrence, Jake and Jonathan at Wilf's Cafe in Staveley

David at the start of the walk with the fells of the Kentmere Horseshoe in the distance​

Hawthorns in blossom as we ascended to Shipman Knotts​

David, Jake and Jonathan on Harter Fell 778 metres (2,552 feet)​

Looking down on Small Water, Haweswater Reservoir and across to the distant Northern Pennines.​

View south to the fells of Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke​

Lawrence, Jake and Jonathan beside the beacon on Thornthwaite Crag

Windermere, the Troutbeck Valley and distant Coniston Old Man as we descended from Yoke Fell​

Recent scrapbook page I completed on the Kentmere Horseshoe​

'Big Picture' scrapbook page showing Lynne and David approaching Everest Base Camp Tibet 2016.​

My second 'Big Picture' scrapbook page of sunrise on the shores of Lake Namtso Tibet 2016​

Scrapbook page of David and Lynne at The Potala Lhasa Tibet 2016​

Scrapbook page of Lynne and David at The Jokhang in Lhasa Tibet 2016​

David approaching the Kolahoi Glacier Kashmir 1985

Lynne Kashmir Trek 1985​

David stood by the cairn at Alto Altar Mayor, 1535 metres, the highest point on the Camino!

David at Cruz de Ferro 1,504 metres (4,934 feet) above sea level. I am holding the two special
stones I brought from England to place at the foot of this cross on the Camino.

These are the two special stones I brought from England to leave at the foot of the cross
at Cruz de Ferro.

David elated at Monte do Gozo with his first view of the distant towers
of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

David with fellow pilgrims Susanna, Pia and Cathy. We were ecstatic at completing the Camino!!!

A couple of days to rest and 'catch up' with fellow pilgrims!

My Camino ''compostela' certificate with Lynne's name added at the bottom!

Both my compostela certificates, written in Latin, are now proudly mounted in my hallway alongside a map of the camino route from St Jean Pied de Port in France out to the Atlantic Ocean.

Pilgrims about to leave Santiago de Compostela for the next stage
of the Camino out to Finisterre on the Atlantic Ocean.

I took a detour off the Camino route to visit the beautiful 12th century
Romanesque Church of Santa Maria de Eunate near Puente La Reina

David with fellow pilgrim Stephanie from Hong Kong

Camino way-markers signposted the entire route across Northern Spain

Enjoying a chat with fellow pilgrims near Alto de Erro on approach to Zubiri

The sound of the cuckoo by the Canal de Castilla near Fromista

Water fountain in the hamlet of La Faba on the way to O'Cebreiro

David lighting a candle in memory of Lynne in Iglesia de Nuestra Sra. de la Concepcion
in the village of Hontanas

Stunning views on the 400 metre climb up onto the Ruta Pradela detour
after leaving Villafranca del Bierzo

Jake setting up the tent and me enjoying an evening meal in the presence of 'Stanley' Jake's faithful whippet!!

Early morning start on an 18 mile walk around Derwentwater plus detouring up to Watendlath Tarn and
over into Borrowdale. Truly awesome views of the lake!

David walking along the banks of the River Nidd on the Nidderdale Way February 2019

Lynne enjoying the tulips at the Keukenhof Gardens in The Netherlands

Lynne enjoying an 'aperol spritz' at the seaside in Noordwijk aan Zee

Lynne amongst the amazing windmills at Zaanse Schans

Pilgrim 'shell' way-marker on the Camino de Santiago

David and Lynne near the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau in Switzerland in August 1973

At Portstewart we were amazed to find we could drive along the beach!

We spent a wonderful morning in the Seamus Heaney HomePlace Centre in the village of Bellaghy

This is Helmsdale, the bungalow my dad built in the early 1960's. This photo
was a bit of a sad moment as we had just sold the bungalow in 2015, after my mum died in 2011.

'The Arches' railway viaduct in Littleborough
* photo courtesy of Wikipedia

Littleborough Station
* photo courtesy of Wikipedia

Two cannons in the courtyard at the entrance to Lai Chi Wo

East Gate entrance to Lai Chi Wo

Footpath through 'Tolkien' landscape beyond Wu Kau Tang

Ginger growing in-front of Sam Uk Ha village near the start of our walk to Lai Chi Wo

Threshing machine outside abandoned village

Coastal inlet near Lai Chi Wo

Abandoned village we explored en-route from Wu Kau Tang to Lai Chi Wo

David, Susanna and Louisa enjoying the view on our approach to Lai Chi Wo

Lynne on the contour footpath on the slopes of Tin Tang Lung

Footpath through 'Tolkien' landscape between Wu Kau Tang and Lai Chi Wo

Chris Bonington's latest book 'ASCENT'

Books in my Himalayan collection devoted to expeditions to Kongur and Sepu Kangri

The front cover of Chris Bonington's 'Everest the Hard Way'
showing Dougal Haston on the summit of Everest.

We took this photo as we entered the Annapurna Sanctuary on our trek in 1980.
You can see the snow plastered South Face of Annapurna on the right.

Lynne at Machapuchare Base Camp.
The location of the yeti sightings! She is holding a pair of socks frozen
solid as they had been left out overnight to dry on a tent guy rope!

All our trekking team signed the inside cover of my copy of Chris Bonington's
'Annapurna South Face' while on the trek. It is one of my most treasured books in my library.

Every child in my class plus myself were sent a postcard from Everest Base Camp
in Tibet signed by all the climbing team!!

The pile of postcards addressed to Beacon Hill School in Hong Kong next to Joe Tasker who is updating his filming notes at Everest Base Camp in Tibet in 1982.

David at the start of the walk with the fells of the Kentmere Horseshoe in the distance

Hawthorns in blossom as we ascended to Shipman Knotts

David, Jake and Jonathan on Harter Fell 778 metres (2,552 feet)

Looking down on Small Water, Haweswater Reservoir and across to the distant Northern Pennines.

View south to the fells of Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke

Windermere, the Troutbeck Valley and distant Coniston Old Man as we descended from Yoke Fell

Recent scrapbook page I completed on the Kentmere Horseshoe

'Big Picture' scrapbook page showing Lynne and David approaching Everest Base Camp Tibet 2016.

My second 'Big Picture' scrapbook page of sunrise on the shores of Lake Namtso Tibet 2016

Scrapbook page of David and Lynne at The Potala Lhasa Tibet 2016

Scrapbook page of Lynne and David at The Jokhang in Lhasa Tibet 2016

Lynne Kashmir Trek 1985

Sunset from our houseboat on Nagin Lake Kashmir