Walking on the Dales Way . . . by the River Wharfe . . . north of Burnsall . . . Yorkshire Dales
Map showing route from Grassington to Linton, Thorpe,
Burnsall and return to Grassington by River Wharfe
Linton Falls near Grassington
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My day started with breakfast at the CoffeECO cafe at the entrance of the old cobbled square in Grassington. I enjoyed a delicious sausage + egg bap with a mug of mocha! Grassington is used as the main filming location for 'Darrowby' in 'All Creatures Great and Small' . . . you almost expect James Herriot to walk out of an alleyway! So it is a popular destination for tourists from all over the world. The old square and two uphill lanes are fringed by teashops, pubs, shops offering local foods and art+craft gift shops. Grassington is home to the popular 'Dickensian Festival' which is held every December.
I soon made my way to the Yorkshire Dales National Park Centre and the narrow path down to Linton Falls. I am so pleased the natural stone slabs of the original footpath are once again visible now that the more recent tarmac has been removed. I could hear the combined roar of the falls and the two weirs as I descended closer to the River Wharfe. Linton Falls were formed when a fault in the earth's crust shifted millions of years ago raising the limestone rocks to the north higher than those to the south. The whisky-peaty waters were roaring over the limestone rocks occasionally lit up by brief flashes of sunlight! Just above the falls two weirs that once channelled water into a large textile mill, now demolished, add to the roar of cascading water. You can also see the hydro-electric plant that was restored and re-opened in 2012 once again supplying electricity through water power . . . it had been shut down in the 1940's.
From Linton Falls I did a short detour to the Church of St Michael's and All Angels which is set in an isolated location by the River Wharfe. It is a 12th century building with 14th to 15th century extensions . . . it was restored in 1861 by John Varley of Skipton. I loved its interior walls with all the stonework visible . . . a perfect surround for the beautiful stained-glass windows. The font dates back to Norman times . . . I reflected on how it has been used continuously to baptise generations of children over the centuries.
Grassington with Linton Falls + Linton Church
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Climbing out of Linton I was soon on the slopes of Elbolton Hill affording views back across to Grassington with a wider perspective of this part of Wharfedale. I came across an isolated glacial boulder in the middle of the field with woodland on the ridge behind it . . . see photo gallery below. It was here that I could clearly see the earthworks of extensive medieval field systems all around on the surrounding hillsides. The slopes of Elbolton Hill contain an outstanding sequence of field remains associated with medieval agriculture. I could see the narrow plough-strips associated with 'lynchets' . . . these are terraces formed on sloping south-facing hills. The action of ploughing and collecting stones along the edge of the terrace builds up 'steps' on the hillside. I could easily imagine 'serfs' ploughing the terraces and tending crops!
I soon arrived in the pretty Dales village of Thorpe. Thorpe derives its name from 'Old Norse' meaning outlying farmstead. It is surounded by limestone 'reef-knolls' including Elbolton Hill which I had just climbed and Kail Hill to the east. This seclusion meant that Thorpe remained unaffected by Scottish raiders and it was a place that local people sought refuge from troops engaged in the English Civil War in the 17th century. The village was well known for its cobblers. I had a good chat with a young man who had just returned to live in Thorpe after a few years working in Leeds. He is working with his father who is a local farmer. He said his children were so much happier living here in the countryside rather than the city.
Walking between Linton Falls and Burnsall . . . via Linton and Thorpe
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I then followed the 'Dales Way', beside the River Wharfe, all the way back to Grassington. I always enjoy walking alongside the gorge opposite the impressive limestone cliff of Loup Scar. It is one of the best spots in the Yorkshire Dales for wild swimming plus for those brave enough there is a cliff jump into a deep natural plunge pool . . . not for the faint-hearted!
Further on I crossed the river on the suspension bridge built by local blacksmith, William Bell, in 1885. Just before the valley broadened out I met John and Jacqueline from Harrogate. We chatted for ten minutes about our shared love of walking. They had done a lot of walking in the wilds of north-west Scotland including summiting the awesome peak of Suilven in their younger days.
On arrival in Grassington I found my usual tearoom, The Corner Cafe, closed. The Retreat Cafe next to The Stripey Badger bookshop was open. I enjoyed a latte with raspberry brownie!
My walk today was a truly beautiful hike. The contrast between hillside villages in the morning with the afternoon riverside walk was delightful! In a few weeks time I am planning a day hike with my daughter Louisa and I have already decided today's adventure would be perfect!
Thorpe to Burnsall . . . return to Grassington on the Dales Way
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Map of Circular Walk from How Stean Gorge via Middlesmoor, Scar House Reservoir, Dale Edge and Lofthouse
. . . and return via Dale Edge and Lofthouse!
The weather was set to be dry today despite thick cloud and a blustery wind. More heavy rain is forecast for the coming weekend so I decided today was perfect for a long walk. I enjoyed a superb 11.7 mile hike, mostly on moorland, providing an elevation gain of 522 metres (1,711 feet). It is a 35 minute drive from my home in Harrogate to How Stean Gorge. How Stean Gorge is a limestone gorge in Upper Nidderdale. It is part of the Upper Nidderdale Site of Special Scientific Interest. The gorge lies between the villages of Lofthouse and Stean and extends for about a kilometre (0.6 miles) along the course of How Stean Beck, a tributary of the River Nidd. This limestone is known as an 'inlier' because it lies within the millstone grit rock that dominates on the surface of Nidderdale. The gorge is 15 to 20 metres (50 to 65 feet) deep.
I started my day with breakfast in the How Stean Cafe! I enjoyed a sausage + egg sandwich with a mocha in the cafe with its floor-to-ceiling glass walls and reinforced glass floor panels overhanging the gorge! On one of my photos you can see my mocha on the glass above the gorge!! They also specialise in outdoor pursuits both within the gorge and Upper Nidderdale. I have a very strong memory of coming here as a child with my parents in our Bedford campervan in the late 1950's or early 1960's. I recognised the adjacent campsite. There are now new lodges on site. I remember my Dad disappearing down a pothole in the grounds with a professional caver . . . I think we even have an old 8mm family movie of our time at How Stean Gorge!
How Stean Gorge + walk up to Middlesmoor
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I was delighted to find the Church of St Chad open. The church was consecrated in 1484 but the current building was built around 1866. I found the stone cross inscribed 'Cross of St Ceadda' dated to Anglo-Saxon times plus the font which is possibly Anglo-Saxon! As I came out of the church I met the Church Warden . . . we had a good chat!
Middlesmoor is located on the 'Nidderdale Way' long-distance footpath that runs for 53 miles through Nidderdale. The village pub is called 'The Crown Inn' and dates back to the 1600's. I spent some time exploring the village looking down side paths, ginnels and alleyways.
Village of Middlesmoor in Upper Nidderdale . . . one of the highest villages in Yorkshire
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I love the location of Scar House Reservoir in the wild upper reaches of Nidderdale. The peaks on either side are Great Whernside at 704 metres (2,310 feet) and Little Whernside at 604 metres (1,982 feet). It feels so isolated and remote! It is the second of three reservoirs in Nidderdale. There is an even higher reservoir at Angram just above Scar House. The reservoirs supply the Bradford area of West Yorkshire using only gravity with no pumping stations. The dam at Scar House contains more than a million tonnes of masonry!
The dam height is 71 metres (233 feet) and almost 600 metres long (2,000feet). Construction started in 1921 and took 15 years to complete. From a raised stone platform in the middle section of the dam you can look down to the river and wooded valley far below . . . head for heights required!!
Moorland track to Scar House Reservoir
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Lofthouse is a charming village located in the heart of Upper Nidderdale. I enjoyed looking at all the old stone buildings many of which date back to its once thriving lead-mining industry. From Lofthouse I could look back up to the village of Middlesmoor just a mile uphill and where I had walked through earlier in the day. It was now just a half-mile walk back to How Stean Gorge where I enjoyed a refreshing pot of tea with fruit cake and Wensleydale cheese at the cafe overlooking the limestone gorge. A truly wonderful hike!!
Scar House Reservoir back to How Stean Gorge via Dale Edge and Lofthouse
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This week I walked on the England Coast Path in Northumberland from Craster to Beadnell Bay via Dunstanburgh Castle and Low Newton-by-the-Sea . . . it was a totally awesome walk . . .
. . . . blog to follow soon!
Next week I am walking for a few days amongst the spectacular mountain peaks, enchanting forests and glorious coastline of Southern Snowdonia!
In 31 days time on the 24th April I will be setting off to Glasgow to start walking on the 'West Highland Way' for 15 days to Fort William . . . with extra days to spend time amongst the mountains of Glencoe. On my rest day in Fort William I hope to climb Ben Nevis . . . the highest mountain in the UK . . . weather permitting. I will then continue walking from Fort William to Inverness on the 'Great Glen Way' for 10 days arriving on Wednesday 15th May. These two solo walks are with Macs Adventure! Super excited!!!
I would love to hear from you either by commenting directly to this blog or by secure email as outlined in the 'Contact' section of my website . . . 'Beyond the Sacred Mountains'.
Regards
David
"Lets wander where the WiFi is weak!"